Dometic Refrigerator Tips

[Curt Sprenger]

Replacement Fan...Over a year ago I bought a surplus computer fan,
$4.00, and installed it using a household thermostat. It's set to run
when temp. gets to 90 degrees. It's still working, and quiet too.

Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.



Eric Johnson wrote:

> Hi Ralph,
> Thanks for the information. It seems the unit came back from the dead
> after I shut off the
> 12 vdc to the back of the coach and then put it back in service. It
> took a long time to cool
> back down but then we keep having 100+ºF days which doesn't help. I
> don't think the fan
> located in the outside compartment is working anymore. Got any info on
> a good
> replacement for this fan? Is it on a thermostat or should it run when
> I flip the switch in the
> panel next to the kitchen sink, regardless of temperature? Better
> circulation through there
> might improve cooling on these hot days.
> Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> 84FC35SBWL2
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> , "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello Eric:
> >
> > Lets explore some basic troubleshooting on this one.
> >
> > First, the button at the bottom that was red, now green, after
> resetting is
> > for the LP only. Your refer, if not on automatic needs to be
> switched over
> > to LP at the eye brow of (panel) of the refer.
> > 12 vdc
> > Now, no matter if on ac or lp, the refer board still needs 12 vdc to
> power
> > it up. So you need to check to be sure there is 12 vdc at the terminal
> > strip in the out side refer compartment. The terminal strip is at
> the base
> > of the refer just under the circuit board. If 12 vdc is present,
> there are
> > 2 or 3 fuses on the circuit board that needs to be checked.
> >
> > 110 vac
> > Next, you need to ohm out the 110vac heater located beside the
> boiler tube
> > on the right. Find the wiring and trace to where the connectors are.
> making
> > sure power is off, undo the connectors and measure ohms across the 2
> > wires. You should read between 1.2 and 4 ohms, or a reading other
> than 0.
> > if the meter reads 0 then the heater is bad, replace it. If it ohms
> out,
> > then re connect the wires, apply 110 vac power, turn on the refer to
> manual
> > ac, then check for 110 vac at the connections going to the heater. The
> > boiler tube should be very warm to the touch or you can feel the insert
> > tube on the side of the boiler to see if it is getting hot.
> >
> > Lp.
> > Switch the eye brow to manual lp and you should hear a click click
> click of
> > the igniter/re igniter trying to ignite the lp flame. go out and
> make sure
> > it lights, you may have to remove the cover plate to see the flame
> or use a
> > mirror.
> >
> > If the AC heater is getting hot and the boiler tube is becoming
> warm, in 3
> > to 4 hours you should be able to feel the shelf plate in the refer
> getting
> > cold. If it remains warm or hot, then the coil unit of the refer is
> blocked
> > and time for a new unit.
> >
> > If you need a new unit. There was a recall on Norcold units, due to
> fires
> > starting, so be sure to check that model and serial numbers if you go
> > Norcold. Most techs and RV repair places are reluctant to even work on
> > Norcolds right now because of law suites.
> >
> > Personal I still think the Dometic is a better unit, but that is
> like tires
> > and insurance, everyone has their own ideas.
> >
> > Start with the voltage check and take it one step at a time.
> >
> > Safe travels,
> >
> > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> <http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm>
> >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> , "Eric Johnson"
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Our original Dometic refrigerator has mysteriously quit cooling
> > > > while on shore power. I
> > > > > opened the door and found it was warm inside. Checked the light
> > > > at the bottom and it was
> > > > > showing red. I turned the unit off, waited awhile, turned it back
> > > > on and the light was green.
> > > > > Checked it a couple of hours later and still no cooling.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any ideas on what might be the problem? I had the circuit board
> > > > replaced about 5 years ago
> > > > > and it has worked great ever since. Could it be I need a new
> > > > board again?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks in advance for any help, suggestions.
> > > > >
> > > > > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > > > > 84FC35SBWL2
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>