Dometic Refrigerator Tips

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Hi Eric:

My apology, I had inadvertently over looked this E-mail. The original fan
does or did have a thermostat in line with the 12 vdc power and was set to
be on at 90 F and off at 70 ish F. When I replaced my fan, the large 12 vdc
fans found at truck stops or RV parts, I took the thermostat out of it and
went directly to the operator controlled switch on the panel.

Curt's solution worked for him as well, and not a bad one. I just like
larger fans pushing more air through the coils and out the top of the
stack. Either way, air is moving and that is the preferred thing.

I did an experiment out in Phoenix (119 F in the shade) when visiting our
Daughter. I took and umbrella and made a shade for the out side compartment
and it did help cool it down as well. Was going to put the smallest ZipDee,
like over the windows, over the refer out side compartment to match the
rest of the Coach. But that is an extreme, just thought it a good idea,
still do.

Glad your refer reset for you. The fridge temps should be in the area of 36
to 39F in the main box and 6 to 9 degrees F in the freezer, this is the
normal temps.

Ralph

At 10:01 PM 8/21/2006 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi Ralph,
>Thanks for the information. It seems the unit came back from the dead
>after I shut off the
>12 vdc to the back of the coach and then put it back in service. It took
>a long time to cool
>back down but then we keep having 100+ºF days which doesn't help. I don't
>think the fan
>located in the outside compartment is working anymore. Got any info on a
>good
>replacement for this fan? Is it on a thermostat or should it run when I
>flip the switch in the
>panel next to the kitchen sink, regardless of temperature? Better
>circulation through there
>might improve cooling on these hot days.
>Regards, Eric in San Antonio
>84FC35SBWL2
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello Eric:
> >
> > Lets explore some basic troubleshooting on this one.
> >
> > First, the button at the bottom that was red, now green, after
> resetting is
> > for the LP only. Your refer, if not on automatic needs to be switched over
> > to LP at the eye brow of (panel) of the refer.
> > 12 vdc
> > Now, no matter if on ac or lp, the refer board still needs 12 vdc to power
> > it up. So you need to check to be sure there is 12 vdc at the terminal
> > strip in the out side refer compartment. The terminal strip is at the base
> > of the refer just under the circuit board. If 12 vdc is present, there are
> > 2 or 3 fuses on the circuit board that needs to be checked.
> >
> > 110 vac
> > Next, you need to ohm out the 110vac heater located beside the boiler tube
> > on the right. Find the wiring and trace to where the connectors are.
> making
> > sure power is off, undo the connectors and measure ohms across the 2
> > wires. You should read between 1.2 and 4 ohms, or a reading other than 0.
> > if the meter reads 0 then the heater is bad, replace it. If it ohms out,
> > then re connect the wires, apply 110 vac power, turn on the refer to
> manual
> > ac, then check for 110 vac at the connections going to the heater. The
> > boiler tube should be very warm to the touch or you can feel the insert
> > tube on the side of the boiler to see if it is getting hot.
> >
> > Lp.
> > Switch the eye brow to manual lp and you should hear a click click
> click of
> > the igniter/re igniter trying to ignite the lp flame. go out and make sure
> > it lights, you may have to remove the cover plate to see the flame or
> use a
> > mirror.
> >
> > If the AC heater is getting hot and the boiler tube is becoming warm, in 3
> > to 4 hours you should be able to feel the shelf plate in the refer getting
> > cold. If it remains warm or hot, then the coil unit of the refer is
> blocked
> > and time for a new unit.
> >
> > If you need a new unit. There was a recall on Norcold units, due to fires
> > starting, so be sure to check that model and serial numbers if you go
> > Norcold. Most techs and RV repair places are reluctant to even work on
> > Norcolds right now because of law suites.
> >
> > Personal I still think the Dometic is a better unit, but that is like
> tires
> > and insurance, everyone has their own ideas.
> >
> > Start with the voltage check and take it one step at a time.
> >
> > Safe travels,
> >
> > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm