Dometic Refrigerator Tips

[Eric Johnson]

Thanks Tom,
I guess the toaster is one of the options the original buyer of this WL2 decided
they could
live without so I don't have one. Think a new fan will help along the lines of
Ralph's and
Curt's suggestions.
Regards, Eric
84FC35SBWL2

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Tom Warner wrote:
>
> Just a thought but if you have the optional
> toaster that extends into the refrigerator cavity
> from the left sidewall of the kiitchen it
> restricts the smooth flow of air from the outside
> panel up thru the cooling coils to the roof vent.
> Take it out as I did and it makes a big difference.
>
> Tom Warner
> Vernon Center,NY
> 1985 PT 40
>
>
> At 06:50 PM 8/21/2006, you wrote:
> >Replacement Fan...Over a year ago I bought a surplus computer fan,
> >$4.00, and installed it using a household thermostat. It's set to run
> >when temp. gets to 90 degrees. It's still working, and quiet too.
> >
> >Curt Sprenger 1987 PT38, Anaheim Hills, Calif.
> >
> >
> >
> >Eric Johnson wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Ralph,
> > > Thanks for the information. It seems the unit came back from the dead
> > > after I shut off the
> > > 12 vdc to the back of the coach and then put it back in service. It
> > > took a long time to cool
> > > back down but then we keep having 100+ºF days which doesn't help. I
> > > don't think the fan
> > > located in the outside compartment is working anymore. Got any info on
> > > a good
> > > replacement for this fan? Is it on a thermostat or should it run when
> > > I flip the switch in the
> > > panel next to the kitchen sink, regardless of temperature? Better
> > > circulation through there
> > > might improve cooling on these hot days.
> > > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > > 84FC35SBWL2
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > > , "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hello Eric:
> > > >
> > > > Lets explore some basic troubleshooting on this one.
> > > >
> > > > First, the button at the bottom that was red, now green, after
> > > resetting is
> > > > for the LP only. Your refer, if not on automatic needs to be
> > > switched over
> > > > to LP at the eye brow of (panel) of the refer.
> > > > 12 vdc
> > > > Now, no matter if on ac or lp, the refer board still needs 12 vdc to
> > > power
> > > > it up. So you need to check to be sure there is 12 vdc at the terminal
> > > > strip in the out side refer compartment. The terminal strip is at
> > > the base
> > > > of the refer just under the circuit board. If 12 vdc is present,
> > > there are
> > > > 2 or 3 fuses on the circuit board that needs to be checked.
> > > >
> > > > 110 vac
> > > > Next, you need to ohm out the 110vac heater located beside the
> > > boiler tube
> > > > on the right. Find the wiring and trace to where the connectors are.
> > > making
> > > > sure power is off, undo the connectors and measure ohms across the 2
> > > > wires. You should read between 1.2 and 4 ohms, or a reading other
> > > than 0.
> > > > if the meter reads 0 then the heater is bad, replace it. If it ohms
> > > out,
> > > > then re connect the wires, apply 110 vac power, turn on the refer to
> > > manual
> > > > ac, then check for 110 vac at the connections going to the heater. The
> > > > boiler tube should be very warm to the touch or you can feel the insert
> > > > tube on the side of the boiler to see if it is getting hot.
> > > >
> > > > Lp.
> > > > Switch the eye brow to manual lp and you should hear a click click
> > > click of
> > > > the igniter/re igniter trying to ignite the lp flame. go out and
> > > make sure
> > > > it lights, you may have to remove the cover plate to see the flame
> > > or use a
> > > > mirror.
> > > >
> > > > If the AC heater is getting hot and the boiler tube is becoming
> > > warm, in 3
> > > > to 4 hours you should be able to feel the shelf plate in the refer
> > > getting
> > > > cold. If it remains warm or hot, then the coil unit of the refer is
> > > blocked
> > > > and time for a new unit.
> > > >
> > > > If you need a new unit. There was a recall on Norcold units, due to
> > > fires
> > > > starting, so be sure to check that model and serial numbers if you go
> > > > Norcold. Most techs and RV repair places are reluctant to even work on
> > > > Norcolds right now because of law suites.
> > > >
> > > > Personal I still think the Dometic is a better unit, but that is
> > > like tires
> > > > and insurance, everyone has their own ideas.
> > > >
> > > > Start with the voltage check and take it one step at a time.
> > > >
> > > > Safe travels,
> > > >
> > > > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > > > Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
> > > > http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm
> > > <http://home.swbell.net/rlf47/index.htm>
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > > , "Eric Johnson"
> > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Our original Dometic refrigerator has mysteriously quit cooling
> > > > > > while on shore power. I
> > > > > > > opened the door and found it was warm inside. Checked the light
> > > > > > at the bottom and it was
> > > > > > > showing red. I turned the unit off, waited awhile, turned it back
> > > > > > on and the light was green.
> > > > > > > Checked it a couple of hours later and still no cooling.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Any ideas on what might be the problem? I had the circuit board
> > > > > > replaced about 5 years ago
> > > > > > > and it has worked great ever since. Could it be I need a new
> > > > > > board again?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks in advance for any help, suggestions.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Regards, Eric in San Antonio
> > > > > > > 84FC35SBWL2
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>