Battery charger electrical advice and help needed - please.

[one_dusty_hoot]

Stop=step. I don't think that would happen.

From your previous post(s) you say you removed the
batteries and they charged, started the engine fine,
then camped, when you tried the starter it would not
start.

Have you heard of phanton drain? I think this is the
term used. It is a drain on the battery bank with all
switches, even the master, turned off. It is used in
clocks radios, refrigertator, anything that would be
desirable not to reset. This uses 3-6 amps of current
all the time. If you disconnect the posts, just the
posituve, this drain will be eliminated, all you will
have remaining is the internal drain within the battery,
forget that.

12V is 12v, if you have two 6V batteries in series,
battery A and battery B, you wouid connect a 12 V
Battery from negative charger to negative A, Positive
charger to battery B. If you have a 6 V charger and
6 V batteries connected you will have to charge one at
a time. You have two 6 V batteries in series that are
in parallel with an equal arrangement. 12V ground to
positive out. A high current capacity configuration.

Sears has a charger, that is reported to be a semi-smart
charger for $60-65. Or, if you have another charger use
it, just don't leave it on all the time, batteries will
boil and be ruined.

As far as the volt meter going from peg to peg, it could
be one of two things, one would be the momentum of the
needle/pointer, two is the starter is acting as a generator
on a no load portion of the engine rotation.

If you are thinking of getting around 32K for you coach
because that about what you have in it you may be awakened
when you see what price some of them are selling. Just
recently a nice coach, new paint scheme, was in the midst
of a buy/seel for 20K.

Chances are if selling is really a desire, you will not
recieve as much as you have in the coach unless you are
fortunate enough, and have enough time to find someone
who wants the coach more that you did.

These motor homes need care and money even while they are
sitting idle, and, if you have monthly payments too they
can really eat your lunch. You may have to take a loss
selling rather than take a greater loss keeping it.

Bob Janes, 87FC35, Greenville, SC


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Adria Haynes"
<mrbeebody@...> wrote:
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "one_dusty_hoot"
> wrote:
> >
> > You have a choice, a simple one, seems like you have
> > gone through 5 sets of batteries. Weigh continuing
> > this, battery cost after battery cost against the
> > cost of a new charging system. Add inconvenience too.
> > Why test the charger? Replace, and enjoy your MH.
> > Bob Janes, '87FC35, Greenville, SC
> >
>
> Well I didn't know anything about these being referred to as
boilers
> and I didn't want to spend big bucks on replacing something based
on
> my uneducated assumptions. The batteries are from Sam club - who
> have been gracious enough to replace them both times, including
> yesterday.
>
> It was never a matter of NOT replacing the chargers if I KNEW it
was
> them, but rather a search for how to PROVE it was them. It looks
> like I was probaby correct in my assumptions and it's also good to
> learn that these ole sweetie's just naturally lose battery power
via
> setting unlugged for extended time lengths and that there may be
> nothing wrong with her once I'm past this hurdle.
>
> I'll be looking into replacement charger options fairly soon and
> will probably spam you again for more help when that day comes. As
> it currently stands - I kind of don't get how one box can be two
> chargers, have two plug in cords, tie in to the electrical in two
> places. I guess I have some learning to do now that it's narrowed
> down.
>
> Devils advocate here.....
>
> Lets say I hook up a NEW charger and the RV battery duo still has
> the nagative posts cook and the volts meter still goes wiggly, and
> it still acts like it's mad at me - where would the next stop be?
>