Water leak...

[Rob Robinson]

Hi Greg. Dicor 501 can be used on both fiberglass and metal surfaces. It is
primarily used to seal joints between rubber roofs and fiberglass/metal
surfaces.

On 17/10/06, Gregory OConnor wrote:
>
> I dont know much about caulk but I was watching a neighbor work on
> engines for John Force and he used Homedepot style clear silicon
> sealent betwen the manifolds. If you chose a specility product keep
> in mind RV sealants may cater to fiberglass SOB's and may not work on
> our Steel SOB's. Some one posted that the side walls get up to
> 135Deg. in the sun, the roof may get hotter
> GregoryO'Connor
> 94ptRomolandCa
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
> "g_man1146"
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi John,
> >
> > On my '99 LXi,the cowling or shroud you are speaking of is just a
> > trim to aerodynamically end the front of the rail. There is no
> > ssealant needed between the bottom edge of the shroud and the roof.
> > The only sealing needed is for the mounting screws on the shroud
> and
> > for the end of the rail/brackets under the shroud. The water flows
> > freely under mine and does not leak into the coach. Your model may
> > be different but looking at the pictures on the Vintage Birds
> > History page, they appeay similar. Obviously your test shows that
> > yours does leak so I would suspect something under the shroud.
> > Anyone have further insight? Personally, I would choose a special
> > purpose sealant as I'm not a fan of silicone caulk. Again, someone
> > with more knowledge can hopefully add to this for you.
> >
> > Rich D. '99LXi43' CT
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
> "John"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > We finally got some much needed rain here in central TX
> yesterday.
> > I
> > > just happened to be out in our bird getting things ready for our
> > > upcomming trip and I noticed a wet spot on the capret on top of
> the
> > > dash just in front of the co-pilot's seat. After opening up some
> > > panels in the front overhead cabinets and removing the speaker
> > above
> > > the entry door I think I got the area where water was coming in
> > pretty
> > > well narrowed down. I thought it was where the awning rail was
> > screwed
> > > down. After it stopped raining and had dried out, I used a water
> > > bottle to wet the area around the awning rail...no water
> > insde...then
> > > I noticed the plastic/fiberglass cowling at the front end of the
> > rails
> > > that run the length of the roof looked cracked in a couple places
> > and
> > > like the cowling might be lifting up a little. I wet that area and
> > > presto....there was water inside again. If I get a chance today I
> > am
> > > going to pull that cowling off and clean off the old silicone and
> > > re-seal everything.
> > > Would it be ok to use an exterior silicone adhesive caulk from
> home
> > > depot or should I use something more specialized for up on the
> > roof? I
> > > think part of the cover is on the steel part of the roof and part
> > is
> > > over the fiberglass cap. Also, since the covers are starting to
> > crack,
> > > I am worried that when I screw them back down they might crack
> > further
> > > or break...any ideas other than washers to help distribute the
> > force?
> > > I'm sure it would be expensive to replace them as they are
> > painted. I
> > > thought about applying some resin or something around the cracks
> > then
> > > redrilling the holes. The cracks are only around the screw holes.
> > > Sorry for the long post...Would appreciate any tips.
> > >
> > > John C.
> > > 98 Wanderlodge LX
> > >
> >
>
>
>



--
Rob, Sue & Merlin Robinson
94 WLWB


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