Water leak...

[Stephen Birtles]

for the fasteners you can use small wellnuts or closed rivnuts and
machine screws
Stephen 77fc35


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Rob Robinson"
wrote:
>
> Hi Greg. Dicor 501 can be used on both fiberglass and metal
surfaces. It is
> primarily used to seal joints between rubber roofs and fiberglass/metal
> surfaces.
>
> On 17/10/06, Gregory OConnor wrote:
> >
> > I dont know much about caulk but I was watching a neighbor work on
> > engines for John Force and he used Homedepot style clear silicon
> > sealent betwen the manifolds. If you chose a specility product keep
> > in mind RV sealants may cater to fiberglass SOB's and may not work on
> > our Steel SOB's. Some one posted that the side walls get up to
> > 135Deg. in the sun, the roof may get hotter
> > GregoryO'Connor
> > 94ptRomolandCa
> >
> > --- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
> > "g_man1146"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi John,
> > >
> > > On my '99 LXi,the cowling or shroud you are speaking of is just a
> > > trim to aerodynamically end the front of the rail. There is no
> > > ssealant needed between the bottom edge of the shroud and the roof.
> > > The only sealing needed is for the mounting screws on the shroud
> > and
> > > for the end of the rail/brackets under the shroud. The water flows
> > > freely under mine and does not leak into the coach. Your model may
> > > be different but looking at the pictures on the Vintage Birds
> > > History page, they appeay similar. Obviously your test shows that
> > > yours does leak so I would suspect something under the shroud.
> > > Anyone have further insight? Personally, I would choose a special
> > > purpose sealant as I'm not a fan of silicone caulk. Again, someone
> > > with more knowledge can hopefully add to this for you.
> > >
> > > Rich D. '99LXi43' CT
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In
WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com,
> > "John"
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > We finally got some much needed rain here in central TX
> > yesterday.
> > > I
> > > > just happened to be out in our bird getting things ready for our
> > > > upcomming trip and I noticed a wet spot on the capret on top of
> > the
> > > > dash just in front of the co-pilot's seat. After opening up some
> > > > panels in the front overhead cabinets and removing the speaker
> > > above
> > > > the entry door I think I got the area where water was coming in
> > > pretty
> > > > well narrowed down. I thought it was where the awning rail was
> > > screwed
> > > > down. After it stopped raining and had dried out, I used a water
> > > > bottle to wet the area around the awning rail...no water
> > > insde...then
> > > > I noticed the plastic/fiberglass cowling at the front end of the
> > > rails
> > > > that run the length of the roof looked cracked in a couple places
> > > and
> > > > like the cowling might be lifting up a little. I wet that area and
> > > > presto....there was water inside again. If I get a chance today I
> > > am
> > > > going to pull that cowling off and clean off the old silicone and
> > > > re-seal everything.
> > > > Would it be ok to use an exterior silicone adhesive caulk from
> > home
> > > > depot or should I use something more specialized for up on the
> > > roof? I
> > > > think part of the cover is on the steel part of the roof and part
> > > is
> > > > over the fiberglass cap. Also, since the covers are starting to
> > > crack,
> > > > I am worried that when I screw them back down they might crack
> > > further
> > > > or break...any ideas other than washers to help distribute the
> > > force?
> > > > I'm sure it would be expensive to replace them as they are
> > > painted. I
> > > > thought about applying some resin or something around the cracks
> > > then
> > > > redrilling the holes. The cracks are only around the screw holes.
> > > > Sorry for the long post...Would appreciate any tips.
> > > >
> > > > John C.
> > > > 98 Wanderlodge LX
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Rob, Sue & Merlin Robinson
> 94 WLWB
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>