heat/sound insulation comparison

[Dan Darst]

I have limited experience, but based on it, I can vouch for number 3. Did it
6 months ago when checking/setting valve clearances. Noise reduction was
good. Based on one inch thick material and the tightness of fit, I would
doubt there is enough room for two inch stuff.

Ralph, I tried to adjust placement, no chance, tore the foam. Besides
relying on the sticky to hold it on the sides of the dog house over time,
also used a 1/8" by 1" aluminum strap and existing hardware attaching around
the doghouse about 3" down from the top of the side being careful not to
sqeeze the material much.

dandarst86fc35rbhuntleyil.


>From: "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
>Reply-To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
>To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] heat/sound insulation comparison
>Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2006 13:26:04 -0500
>
>Good Sunday to everyone:
>
>While a spirited exchange of information tends to further knowledge of up
>grades and parts, this is one side I will attempt to expound on, but not
>with the db ratings or density factors, I do not have that information and
>it is superfluous really, in an after the fact sort of way.
>
>What I would like to send out is the experience of use and quality of sound
>and heat insulation, having re done several dog houses and gen sets.
>
>1. Original wafered or honey comb foam insulation with barrier.
> a. No question, the sound deadening quality it the best. that is a plus
> b. Installation ease, comparable
> c. Down side, does not resist oil impregnation nor the effects of heat
>deterioration, which is the reason for replacement in the first place. Will
>have to repeat installation in 5 to 7 years. ( that is an estimate only)
>
>2. Foam with sound barrier with mylar and self sticking back ( such as
>Steven Birtles offers)
> a. Sound deadening quality is acceptable in most cases, though
>certainly
>not as good as the wafered foam.
> b. Mylar facing does resist oil and heat added to a good sound
>deadening
>with the barrier.
> c. installation is comparable but not much room for placement error.
>Once stuck you don't move it. Also sealed with either mylar tape or the
>meatal a/c and heating ducting type ( best)
>
>3. Foam with sound barrier and mylar, (such as from JC Whitney)
> a. Sound quality as 2 above
> b. Mylar facing, the same as 2 above
> c. Installation has one more step with using a spray adhesive on both
>surfaces, allowed to dry to tacky then placement. This is where 2 and 3
>differ. There is room for placement error as the spray adhesive allows for
>slight movement after placement.
>
>All three above need to have screws and washers added to the overhead in
>the gen set compartments to help hold it in place because of the weight of
>the materials used.
>
>I did not mention the Lizzard skin material in the above because I have
>never used it, but Hank has had it done and knowing Hank and his experience
>in Bird's, I trust his experience.
>
>Also I did not mention the cost factor, this is something each individual
>must research on his own. As does the material that is going to be used to
>do the job. I have used 1,2 and 3 above and my personal preference is the
>mylar faced material coupled with the ability to seal all the seams to
>repel weather, heat and noise. Certainly there are compromises that need to
>be addressed. Again that is on the individual to think about when picking
>materials.
>
>Hope this helps a little, and the above is what experience has taught me.
>
>Safe travels,
>
>Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
>Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
>

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