Power steering questions

[Gregory OConnor]

I notice that Hydrolic hoses that bend between fittings in a
stationary pose will split between the cords (unseen on surface) if
you compound the bend with a twist. The shop that rebuilds my
hydrostats (tractor transmissions) draw a line on the relaxed hoses
(down the length) and keep the line even throughout the bend. Some
gates hoses have a line printed for this purpose. It is difficult to
keep the hose from spinning as you tighten down a fitting. Even with
the band clamps , I found alignment is helpful.

Bending hoses dont have as much friction loss as hard angle
fittings. However, with hoses you get a degree of spongeyness and
reaction lag. Up sizeing the hose and all the fittings between a
hydrolic pump and steering also reduced the friction loss causes by
restrictive fittings along the way.
Increasing pump size past the capabilities of the steering will be
hard on the pump unless there is a blowoff valve with sufficient
bypass capabilities. The two are kinda a matched set. Overloads of
pressure and volumn appear in blown seals and hoses.

I never have to oil my Redwings

GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Hohnstein"
<MHOHNSTEIN@...> wrote:
>
> Keep in mind, you can't really over size the return line to the
pump and a auxiliary reservoir close to the pump would be a worthy
modification, as would a cooler.
> MH
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dan Darst
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 11:12 AM
> Subject: RE: [WanderlodgeForum] Power steering questions
>
>
> In October I was messin with the power steering. In the span of a
week, I
> went from Dexron III to straight 30w to mobil 1 10w30 fully
synthetic and
> finally back to straight 30w. The manaual lists straight 30w as
one of the
> acceptables. Also changed suction line and return line. The old
original
> lines were 5/8" heater hose. Go to http://www.discounthydraulichose.com,
they sell
> what you need. It is made by aeroquip, and has no steel braid,
but is quite
> stiff so it won't collapse. They also sell the nylon chafe
protection that
> slips over the hose. I won't be tripping until March (Myrtle), so
no
> conclusions until then. The suction hose connection (new hose) to
the pump
> is dripping now, and it will drip for the next four months. After
I put some
> initial heat to it, I will again tighten the hose clamp. In about
a year, if
> I find the pump needs to be rebuilt, will also try to change that
suction
> line fitting on the pump so it points up instead of to the rear,
thereby
> eliminating the need for the hose to do a 180 degree bend.
>
> dandarst86fc35rbhuntleyil.
>
> >From: "davidkerryedwards"
> >Reply-To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> >To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Power steering questions
> >Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 23:32:39 -0000
> >
> >I'm finally getting around to fixing the power steering leak
I've had since
> >I bought the
> >coach. A perusal of all the maintenance records from new show it
to be
> >a persistent
> >problem reported first in about 1983 or 4. It has barbed
fittings for
> >suction and return
> >lines. Suction fitting on Eaton power steering pump has one hump
instead of
> >barbs, like a
> >heater core. Suction line has been replaced at least once, could
be 2 or 3
> >times. Current
> >suction line is steel reinforced hose. Return line is original
(I think) It
> >is leaking at all
> >suction and return line fittings. Not leaking on high pressure
line.
> > I put my non-contact thermometer on the reservoir after about a
10
> >miles drive on a
> >75 degree day and it showed 239 degrees. Typical power steering
runs at
> >150 degrees.
> >So the Bird power steering fluid is clearly too hot. How to fix?
> > I plan to replace the hoses with high temperature hose (Gates
rubber
> >sells one rated for
> >300 degrees) and try to replace all barbed connections with
threaded
> >connections, except
> >for the barb on the suction line at the pump since that fitting
is not
> >removable. I will also
> >use synthetic fluid rated for higher temperatures.
> >Would the steel reinforcing in the current hose mean it could
not make a
> >good seal on the
> >barbed fitting? The original return line is all rubber.
> >How much of a temperature drop could I expect in the fluid if I
installed a
> >cooler in the
> >system? What is the difference in cooling ability of the
tube/fin versions
> >with an electric
> >fan, tube and fine with no fan, and solid aluminum coolers with
no fan but
> >a row of fins?
> >How exposed to air movement must these coolers be to be
effective? Any
> >recommendations on a good location?
> >I considered moving the reservoir to a cooler location but I
haven't been
> >able to find a
> >location on the bus higher than the power steering pump which
will work.
> >Any advice on how to deal with the problem. I've got the
reservoir out,
> >the suction line
> >removed and will pull the return line in the near future.
> >
>
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