88 power problem update

[mbulriss]

Leroy,

That's not a bad little check list even if you if you don't think you
are experiencing a power failure. In the fog and confusion of an "Oh,
crap" moment, it is all too easy to overlook the basics. For
instance, when my "Do not shift" light (AKA "you can not shift" ;^p)
came on at the Grand Canyon blocking traffic, it took probably 15-20
minutes with several of us frantically checking gauges, switches and
lights to finally notice that the volt meter on the dash was under 12V
and realize that we had lost the alternators. I think I'll print your
little check list out on a 3x5 card and put it up by the 12V
electronic master switch as a reminder to always proceed methodically
with the simple stuff first when disaster strikes. Thanks bud.

As far as your ghost switch turning itself off,.... well I'd keep an
eye on the grandkids and lay off the adult beverages.

On the topic of who wins, based on all your #8 flags in that picture
at least one of those brand X cars didn't win last night, you know
Ford, Dodge or Toyota. LOL!

Mike Bulriss
1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
San Antonio, TX




--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "jwasnewski"
wrote:
>
> -As I review the problem as I always do, that's how I learn more, I
> realize that I deviated from my established policy when
> troubleshooting power failure in the Bird. It is; before proceeding
> to do anything do at least the following:
> i
> 1. Check the 12v power source (the batteries)for on.
> 2. Check the 120v power source for on. (plugged into 50 amp-2 legs)
> 3. Check the volt meter at the drivers dash for at least 12v...
> 4. Check the AC guages for 120v power.(measuring guages for item 2.)
> 5. Check the generator volt meter for 12v.
> 6. Check the 12v electronic master switch for on.
> 7. If it will not start, check the A/T switch(off) and the Front/Rear
> start control switch in the engine bay.(In front position)
> Proceed in a methodical manner to locate the problem if it still
> exists.
> I'll be happy to add others ideas to my list.
>
> I have and use a voltage measuring surge protector that I bought from
> a forum member. I have twice found 120v power problems while using
> the unit. It is quick and easy to use. Every bird owner should own
> one.
>
> I regret that I did not follow my procedure, because it extended the
> time frame for the diagnosis.
>
> Just for information purposes, my 12v electronic master switch has
> turned itself off twice in the last three years, once in motion and
> once sitting around. I have never found the reason and I ain't
> smokin' anything either! It's the truth. Some things are better
> left unexplained.
>
> On a lighter note, we don't care who wins, we go for the party. Plus
> we have fun aggravating our rowdy friends in that Black Bluebird.
>
> Leroy Eckert
> 1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
> Niceville, FL
> Hope all is well in the freezing cold in MT
>
>
> -- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "mbulriss" <mbulriss@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Wellll, I just got back in from moving ~300 cubic feet of mulch by
> > hand (I'll pay for that tomorrow, but I have 100s more to go!) and I
> > see that it was indeed batteries. DING, DING, DING - we have a
> > winner - score one for them Texas boys - actually Mike McMahn. Well
> > actually, even a blind hog gets lucky and finds a root or an acorn
> > sometimes.
> >
> > I actually think the discussion was very well contained, but it did
> > point out the need to ask the right questions and to try to be
> > thorough in describing our problems. I think everyone rightly jumpe
> > to the 120V conclusion based on the early statements of 0 amps
> and "no
> > power" in the front. It wasn't until after several exchanges and
> > ideas that we read that the volt meters read 110 and 120. That
> would
> > have been useful information or a question raised sooner by one of
> us
> > to restore power last night. Then when the Missus got involved with
> > the "OK, while he's out, let me tell y'all what's really
> happening.."
> > it became apparent it was 12V and probably battery related. Mike &
> I
> > had talked off line about the charger being weak or bad and the cold
> > weather up in MT eating the batteries in no time. That's also
> another
> > reason to sign your posts properly as the Rahns did. So we know
> where
> > you are in case someone is close and also to be able to take
> location
> > into account when diagnosing heating, cooling, starting, power
> > problems, etc.
> >
> > I'm not picking on anyone here, just pointing out how we *all*
> jumped
> > to the same conclusion of 120V based on the early posts and never
> got
> > around to asking what exactly was going on. We all need to take
> this
> > lesson to heart the next time we start diagnosing.
> >
> > Just my 2 centavos, and keeping with the Bird of the Week picture
> this
> > week, now it is time to go get a cold one and go watch the Busch
> Clash
> > or whatever they call it these days. Goooo #8!!
> >
> > Mike Bulriss
> > 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan"
> > San Antonio, TX
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Robert & Teri Rahn"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I went and bought a tester and tested the batteries. I went from
> neg of
> > > one to pos of another and it showed very low, like .03. I tested
> my
> > > little jump starter that was fully charged to make sure I had the
> > > tester on the right setting and it showed 12.5 v. So all the
> batteries
> > > are completely dead. I checked the water and they are all full.
> The
> > > charger which is original blue bird and located above the
> batteries in
> > > the same compartment and the fan is runningf in it, my tester
> > > showed .30 volts at the place where the two wires connect to a
> terminal
> > > below the charger under a cover. So it seems the charger is bad.
> I
> > > didnt see any reset on it. So it looks like I need to buy a new
> charger
> > > and batteries. Is there anything left to check befor I do this?
> > >
> > > Robert Rahn
> > > 88 pt 40
> > > Kalispell, Mt.
> > >
> >
>