Thinking caps on?

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Thanks Dick:

And another good point to add to the list of troubleshooting for future
problems for all of us.

Trouble shooting points collective (add any that I missed and we will put
the list in the files section)
1. Leak back through pump
2. Anti back flow valve
3. Sporlan valve
4. fresh water drain valve
5. Burst piping/lose fittings and so forth.
6. City water input valve
7. Water heater pressure relief valve.

I have modified that valve to an air cylinder open/close now rather then
the cable pull system. Problem was the Sporlan valve

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35
Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma


At 10:45 AM 2/24/2007 -0800, you wrote:
>Ralph, You might want to check that long handled HWT drain valve that has
>a pull cable on it. I chased that problem on our FC and finally
>discovered it was that valve. That was after I had rebuilt the Sporlan
>fill valve.
>
>Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ralph L. Fullenwider
> To:
> WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 8:34 PM
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Thinking caps on?
>
>
> Hi everyone:
>
> Here is a fun one perhaps.
>
> Water pump new, 5.7 gpm 65 psi
>
> Pump cycles after initial pressure up. The cycle is a slight burp about
> every 10 to 15 seconds. This normally indicates a water leak.
>
> Kicker, I have been from one end of the pressure side of the piping and no
> water leak. Only think I can think of at this point is perhaps crud in the
> Sporlan valve allowing a seepage back into the system causing a slight
> drop
> in pressure at the pump. The anti back flow valve seal is good, pulled it
> and checked it out.
>
> Ideas?
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> 84FC35
> Ralph's RV Solutions, Duncan, Oklahoma
>
>
>