Coolant Pressure Control Cap

[Bob & Carol Howald`]

Leroy: I also installed what was or is called a swamp cooler
on the radiator. It took water from the potable water tank and thru a
pump and fittings it sprayed water on the radiator on demand. I had
the control at the driver panel. It had about four or five different
settings that sprayed water at timed rates. I would rate it about 5
on a scale of 1 to 10. I really never used it much. The best
procedure was to turn the fan on before the climb and adjust speed
and rpm with a lower gear and just sit and enjoy the ride up the
pass. One draw back might be that if your using really hard
water that you will get a mineral build up on the fin's of the
radiator rather quickly.(hard to get off).
worked for me..sort-of..??;;;;; Bob 93pt-40
'
>
>
> Leroy: If you want to increase the cooling of your 8V-92 you
> could install a 4" air scoup behind the radiator opening to help
> catch the air and redirect it into the radiator. I did this on a 6V-
> 92. I had it made out of stainless steel it had nice curve to it to
> help capture the air. It worked well. Bob
> 93pt40--Bunker Hill, Illinois....Soon to be back in Jackson,Wy.
>
>
>
> wrote:
> >
> > Your theory may be totally correct.
> >
> > My understand of cap pressure values, the higher the pressure,
the
> higher the boiling point. Assuming BB used top quality hoses and I
> believe they did I have some trouble differentiating between the
bus
> and my Cummins SLT 3/4 ton PU, when it comes to cap pressure. My
> diesel truck heating system is tied to the cooling system and it
has
> a factory 15psi cap. My bus has a 13psi cap that I did not install
> and over the past 3 years all has been good. The DD service manual
> says 7-9 psi. I give up, maybe.
> >
> > Over the past few months I have been making small changes to the
> cooling system in my bus. I am taking chances, testing them on my
> bus, in an effort to reduce overall temperatures in the engine,
> transmission, retarder and engine oil. I have changed the
Alarmstat,
> which operates the hydraulic fan to 190 degrees from 195 degrees.
> > I will not know the full extent this change until summer, but so
> far it is working.
> >
> > Before I decided to make the change I consulted with DD approved
> shops and BB. I was not satisfied with the answers sooooo, I
pressed
> on.
> >
> > The DD manual says to be careful not to have cooling system
> components operate out of sequence because the result will be
> overheating. At this point in my testing I have concluded the
> foregoing to mean, the cooling fan, the engine thermostats, and the
> alarmstat, primarily because I do not know of any other cooling
> affected components other than the cap.
> >
> > Before I embarked upon my mission, I was told that temperature
> cycling was the result of the engine thermostats cycling.
> Unfortunately, I cannot force that to happen and I have tried. I
> have driven the coach in temperatures of below 32 degrees with the
> fan override on and my water temperature gauge stabilizes at about
> 170 degrees, the engine thermostat value. In other words, it
doesn't
> move once stabilized, so the engine thermostats are not cycling
> (possibly). If they are it is happening so quickly that it does
not
> register on the temp guage or they partially close and shut down
the
> water flow to hold the constant temperature. I cannot see them
> work. When I turn the fan override off the temperature begins to
> cycle off the Alarmstat between 180-190 degrees.
> >
> > All of this fits the DD published coolant Series 92 publication
in
> my possession. Why BB dedided on a 195 degree Alarmstat, only BB
> knows and they aren't talking, because I have asked. I simply does
> not make sense to force the temperatures to the outer limit of DD
> specifications, ;and that is what happens in summer. Heat is our
> enemy and I have been able to reduce the heat.
> >
> > Most likely, I will change my cap to 9psi sometime in the summer
> and see if that makes any difference. My guess is it will not
simply
> because keeping the engine cooling system within temperature
> specifications precludes any real need for the cap to blow off.
> >
> > I like my drive train component temps now.
> >
> > Engine Oil-215
> > Water Temp-Cycles between 180-190
> > Transmission Temp- 170
> > Retarder Temp- 220
> > All recorded in flat conditions at cruise speed of 68 mph,
pulling
> a 20ft trailer w/car.
> >
> > I do not suggest you try anything unless you fully understand
your
> system, I'm simply reporting what I did.
> > The foregoing presumes that all system components are in proper
> working order.
> >
> > My next project is to install MH's water injection system so when
I
> climb the mountains next summer I'll have a water flood just in
case.
> >
> > Alright, fire away, I have Redneck engineering paperwork on this
> one. LOL lol, lol
> >
> > Leroy Eckert
> > 1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
> > Niceville, FL
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Fred Hulse
> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 11:44 AM
> > Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Coolant Pressure Control Cap
> >
> >
> > My theory about the 7 lb. cap is the coach heating system is
tied
> into the cooling system and Blue Bird has used that pressure to
> protect the other systems in the coach,let alone miles of heater
hose!
> > Fred & Jeanne Hulse
> > Morristown Arizona
> > 1997 Wanderlodge WLWB41
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>