Coolant Pressure Control Cap

[Leroy Eckert]

Thanks: I have not experienced overheating problems, I am picking at it, and I
just do not yet understand why BB and their engineers specified an Alarmstat fan
controller which pushes the water temperature to the upper limit. That is why I
changed my Alarmstat to a lower temperature. I may yet try a 185 degree just to
see if it interferes with the engine thermostat operation. I have a feeling
that it will not. If I can get my coach to run on the flat in the mid-range of
DD specifications, an average of 185 degrees I am going to do it. As always,
thanks again for the input.

Again, I am posting what I am doing and do not suggest any one else try this
unless you understand how your particular system works. So far mine is doing
fine. If I blow my engine up that is my problem. If my theory works, I'm happy
and I will report.

For those who do not know, the Alarmstat, funny name for a part that actually
forces the water temperature up, is the part that cycles the hydraulic fan on
and off, assuming your chassis a/c is off and the fan override is off. That is
how mine works on the WB-40

I am going to install a supplemental water spray system, just in case I need it.

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40"Smoke N Mirrors"
Niceville, FL





----- Original Message -----
From: Pete Masterson
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 12:55 PM
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Coolant Pressure Control Cap


I had some overheating problems with my Series 60 powered unit on my
homebound trip after taking delivery in Texas...

Upon opening up the radiator, it was found to be 2/3 filled with oily-
dirt pulled into the radiator. This could not be seen from the
outside due to the charge air radiator that's located in front of the
water radiator and it could not be seen from the inside due to the
metal shroud around the fan. The area under the fan was open and
clear -- it was everything else that was blocked up.

Although a simple cleaning of the radiator could have resolved the
problem -- I elected to replace the radiator core with a more
efficient design (since about 1/2 the cost was the labor to pull the
radiator).

My current temperature readings are quite similar to yours -- except
the water temperature has yet to go much above 180 -- and my retarder
is exhaust based, and doesn't have a temperature gauge.

When the radiator was replaced, the radiator service replaced the
cap ... it's rated at 15 lbs.

I do lose about 1 quart of radiator water each trip while using the
chassis heat. There's a minor leak somewhere, but I haven't found it
yet. When the chassis heat isn't used, then I don't seem to use any
radiator water. (I carry a couple of spare gallons of premixed
coolant along...)

Pete Masterson
aeonix1@...
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
El Sobrante, CA

On Mar 4, 2007, at 6:09 PM, Leroy Eckert wrote:

> <Snip>
> I like my drive train component temps now.
>
> Engine Oil-215
> Water Temp-Cycles between 180-190
> Transmission Temp- 170
> Retarder Temp- 220
> All recorded in flat conditions at cruise speed of 68 mph, pulling
> a 20ft trailer w/car.
>
> I do not suggest you try anything unless you fully understand your
> system, I'm simply reporting what I did.
> The foregoing presumes that all system components are in proper
> working order.
>
> My next project is to install MH's water injection system so when I
> climb the mountains next summer I'll have a water flood just in case.
>
> Alright, fire away, I have Redneck engineering paperwork on this
> one. LOL lol, lol

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