Looking to purchase used 1992 WB40

[ronmarabito2002]

Tag tires will always scuff if you make sharp turns with the bags
inflated. Less problems if you deflate when manuevaring in a campground.

R.E. (Ron) Marabito, Dallas, TX 92WB40

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
wrote:
>
> Michael, I wonder if the tag tires are scuffed because the PO (
> previous owner) did not pump the bags up leaving the rear tag to
> swing sideways around turns???? I drop air in the tag to back into
> tight camp sites.
>
> Some points to remember ;
> always park with the steer wheels centered forward. When the bags
> empty the bus will lower past the fender flairs.
>
> Leave room for the auto step to open. The air step will automaticaly
> pop out when it detect the air in the tanks may deplete past a
> operating pressure. If parked too close, the step may extend over a
> curb then the bags will lower the bus hung up on a curb.
>
> When I bought my bus I was overwelmed with all the systems and terms.
> In short time I learned; Sporlan is not a bace ball maker; Wabasto
> is not an Asian spice; GoatRails are bodyparts; and, no matter what
> the neighbors say,,,,, I was no longer a SOB
>
> I hope you enjoy the ride.
>
> GregoryO'Connor
> 94PTRomolandCa
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "mbrund" <mbrund@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Well we went and did it now, we went from being wannabee's last
> week
> > to a newbee this week. We looked at two WB this week, a 1994 PT40
> > (well used and abused), and the white 1992 that was on Bird
> > Connection. The 1992 was in great shape for its years, we end up
> > purchasing the unit after going over it for 3 hours, and then 1
> hour
> > drive on rought roads and interstate.
> >
> > The only items we could find that had issues where: Front A/C was
> > low on freon, the tag axle tires have scrubbed off the inner tread
> > on both sides, the other tires while not dry rotted show
> significant
> > wear, the backup monitor does not work. That was pretty much the
> end
> > of the list of issues.
> >
> > One issue that concerned me during the test drive revealed itself
> in
> > the user manual. I had the retarder in apply, and set the cruise
> > control at 65mph. We happen to hit a large expansion joint in a
> > bridge that gave us one heck of a jolt, and the cruise control shut
> > down. We expect that the retarder might have kicked in and shut
> off
> > the cruise when the rear axle went over the bump because we had no
> > more issues with cruise other than that incident as I turned off
> the
> > retarder after that.
> >
> > The prior owner removed the rear body wide mud flap, so when I
> > inspected the radiator for debris I was surprised how clean it
> was.
> > And that is when he told me he removed the mud flap because he was
> > told it would cause an issue.
> >
> > Engine campartment was clean, batteries showed no signs of
> > corrosion, no oil leaks in the under carriage other than at hose
> > joint for the hyd. fluid that I believe drives the power
> > steering/fan (it is a hose right under the radiator).
> >
> > Michael Brundridge
> > 1992 WLWB PT40 - Georgetown, TX
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > It's a good looking coach ... had it been available when I was
> > > looking it would have been high on my list of units to consider.
> > With
> > > the new paint job, you'll find that hardly anybody (outside the
> > BB
> > > community) will believe that it's a 15 year old RV. (My coach is
> > > quite similar, though a couple of years newer and with the Series
> > 60
> > > engine.)
> > >
> > > The Primus heat is a concern ... but parts are available, even
> if
> > > single-sourced. A steel bodied RV does need a bit more heat
> (when
> > > it's cold) than, perhaps, a plastic model. (One of the trade-
> > offs,
> > > but I still much prefer the strength of steel.)
> > >
> > > The main concern is vehicle mechanical condition and the wear
> and
> > > tear on the various systems. If the engine hasn't been
> mistreated,
> > it
> > > is certainly good for a lot of miles beyond the 144,000 lsited.
> > The
> > > miles divided by the engine hours equals an average movement
> speed
> > of
> > > 50 mph -- that suggest that the coach was a fair number of
> > freeway
> > > miles. I would plan a fairly complete servicing including oil
> > change
> > > and brake inspection early on.
> > >
> > > One "watch for" is the condition of the radiator. DD engines are
> > not
> > > forgiving of overheating. It is common for the radiator to
> become
> > > partially clogged with oily-dirt. The tendency of DD engines to
> > spray
> > > a bit of oil through the breather tubes makes the problem worse
> > as
> > > the fan often sucks the oil mist back through the radiator
> mixing
> > > with dust that kicks up. This should be something that you
> > carefully
> > > monitor and try to clean out the radiator if it shows any
> > blockage.
> > > (It was very difficult to examine on my coach as it sits behind
> > the
> > > air-charge radiator (that cools air from the turbo charger), but
> > > perhaps the DD 8v92 configuration allows easier viewing of the
> > > radiator.) Simply pulling the radiator is a $2000+ job. The
> > complete
> > > replacement of the core may run as much as $3000+. (I also had
> > work
> > > done on my chassis AC -- so my tab came to about $4000 for core
> > > replacement and the other services performed by a professional
> > heavy
> > > duty radiator service. Costs for work done outside California may
> > be
> > > more reasonable.)
> > >
> > > Other expenses you might plan for would include new tires in a
> > year
> > > or two. (8 times $350~450) Also, the gel batteries have a life
> > > expectancy of up to about 7 years... but if they've been
> > mistreated,
> > > they may also be next to go. I'm shopping for batteries now ...
> > looks
> > > like about $2100 for six size 4D AGM house batteries. I haven't
> > > priced engine batteries (mine seem OK), but my coach has 3 AGM
> > class
> > > 37s -- about $160 each .
> > >
> > > Of some concern would be the refrigerator. While home
> > refrigerators
> > > used to run for 25-30 years, since the 80s, they've been
> > manufactured
> > > to only last about 10-12 years or so. It's hard to guess how long
> > an
> > > RV refrigerator might last -- it depends on brand, type (RV with
> > gas
> > > & electric option or regular home-type), and use. In particular,
> > if
> > > gas operated, the burner and venting is subject to corrosion.
> > >
> > > Not as difficult, but still a modest headache would be the
> > microwave/
> > > convection oven ... at 15 years, it, too, may be near it's
> > expected
> > > life span -- or not -- again depending on use, etc.
> > >
> > > Pete Masterson
> > > aeonix1@
> > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42'
> > > El Sobrante, CA
> >
>