Post Reply 
 
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Oil & air
05-20-2007, 09:13
Post: #2
Oil & air
On May 20, 2007, at 3:37 PM, Ryan Wright wrote:

> Couple of questions,
>
> 1. How do I change my oil & filter(s) (8V92)? What type of filter(s)
> do I buy & where? How many gallons of oil will it take to do this job?

You should find a booklet specifically for the engine in your blue
box. Perhaps someone with an 8V92 will advise. Note that the 2-cycle
engines use a _single_ weight oil, not the multi-viscosity oil that 4-
cycle engines use.

You'll need both oil and fuel filters to keep on hand. My coach has a
"lifetime" air filter that simply is cleaned and never replaced. I
don't know what year that was initiated (or if it was ever used with
the 8v92 -- I have a Series 60).

Keep in mind you'll also need/want similar filters for your
generator. Both fuel and oil ... my generator uses a particularly
hard-to-find air filter. Had to order it over the Internet. I keep a
spare on board.

Napa auto parts tends to have equivalents for nearly all the filters
you'll need.

>
> 2. How do I manually air the coach up with an external compressor? All
> coach air drops to zero within a few minutes of turning off the engine
> and I want to air it up in my shop and find the leaks. I do not have
> an on-board 12 volt compressor (I want to add one, though). I tried
> putting air into the "air" connection (small compartment above the
> cruise air's on in the center-driver's side) but there must be a
> solenoid or one way valve somewhere because it didn't take much and
> didn't air anything up. Also, what's the recommend pressure I should
> provide? I generally work with 90psi but can provide up to 150psi @
> 15cfm.

The "air connection" you found is a supply source to provide air to
(for example) fill a tire from the engine air compressor. It is "one
way", so that is not the "shop air" inlet.

Look carefully in the engine compartment, probably somewhere near
where the engine air compressor is mounted. You should see a "tire
valve" which is the air input ("shop air") valve. Note that it may
possibly leak, being a source of air loss. It uses a standard tire-
type valve core. I put a metal tire valve cap on mine (and I notice
that I retain some air pressure much longer than before).

Most air systems on BBs are set for a maximum of 120 lbs. Since I
'air' my coach to operate the dump valves, I usually only pressurize
to 60-70 lbs -- as that allows the dump valves to operate.

If you need to provide more air, say to raise the suspension, then
consider 120 as the maximum (the 'pop off' valve should activate at
that pressure anyway). 15 CFM seems a bit high, so I'd be careful
that you're not supplying too much air to the system. Certainly,
you'll reach any given pressure sooner than I do with the 5 CFM
compressor I have. Perhaps someone with more experience will comment.


Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
aeonix1@...
On the road at Lockhart Texas.
Quote this message in a reply
Post Reply 


Messages In This Thread
Oil & air - Ryan Wright - 05-20-2007, 08:37
Oil & air - Pete Masterson - 05-20-2007 09:13
Oil & air - Ryan Wright - 05-20-2007, 15:20
Oil & air - jim riordan - 05-21-2007, 03:59
Oil & air - worktohobby - 05-21-2007, 07:25



User(s) browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)