Oil & air

[Ryan Wright]

Pete,

Appreciate the response - thank you! Good call on the generator fuel
filter - I forgot about that. I've got spares for the Racor and
secondary on the 8V92 but nothing for the Yanmar. I'll add that to my
shopping list.

> The "air connection" you found is a supply source to provide air to
> (for example) fill a tire from the engine air compressor. It is "one
> way", so that is not the "shop air" inlet.

Figured as much after it didn't take anything. I'll see if I can find
that schrader valve tomorrow. Think I'll replace it with a proper air
fitting once I do find it (I hate schrader valves; they seem useful
for tires, but that's about it).

> 15 CFM seems a bit high, so I'd be careful
> that you're not supplying too much air to the system.

CFM will be fine, it's PSI that matters here. Thanks for the PSI
numbers, that will keep me under control.

-Ryan
'86 PT-40 8V92
Tri-Cities, WA


On 5/20/07, Pete Masterson wrote:
>
> You should find a booklet specifically for the engine in your blue
> box. Perhaps someone with an 8V92 will advise. Note that the 2-cycle
> engines use a _single_ weight oil, not the multi-viscosity oil that 4-
> cycle engines use.
>
> You'll need both oil and fuel filters to keep on hand. My coach has a
> "lifetime" air filter that simply is cleaned and never replaced. I
> don't know what year that was initiated (or if it was ever used with
> the 8v92 -- I have a Series 60).
>
> Keep in mind you'll also need/want similar filters for your
> generator. Both fuel and oil ... my generator uses a particularly
> hard-to-find air filter. Had to order it over the Internet. I keep a
> spare on board.
>
> Napa auto parts tends to have equivalents for nearly all the filters
> you'll need.
>
> >
> > 2. How do I manually air the coach up with an external compressor? All
> > coach air drops to zero within a few minutes of turning off the engine
> > and I want to air it up in my shop and find the leaks. I do not have
> > an on-board 12 volt compressor (I want to add one, though). I tried
> > putting air into the "air" connection (small compartment above the
> > cruise air's on in the center-driver's side) but there must be a
> > solenoid or one way valve somewhere because it didn't take much and
> > didn't air anything up. Also, what's the recommend pressure I should
> > provide? I generally work with 90psi but can provide up to 150psi @
> > 15cfm.
>
> The "air connection" you found is a supply source to provide air to
> (for example) fill a tire from the engine air compressor. It is "one
> way", so that is not the "shop air" inlet.
>
> Look carefully in the engine compartment, probably somewhere near
> where the engine air compressor is mounted. You should see a "tire
> valve" which is the air input ("shop air") valve. Note that it may
> possibly leak, being a source of air loss. It uses a standard tire-
> type valve core. I put a metal tire valve cap on mine (and I notice
> that I retain some air pressure much longer than before).
>
> Most air systems on BBs are set for a maximum of 120 lbs. Since I
> 'air' my coach to operate the dump valves, I usually only pressurize
> to 60-70 lbs -- as that allows the dump valves to operate.
>
> If you need to provide more air, say to raise the suspension, then
> consider 120 as the maximum (the 'pop off' valve should activate at
> that pressure anyway). 15 CFM seems a bit high, so I'd be careful
> that you're not supplying too much air to the system. Certainly,
> you'll reach any given pressure sooner than I do with the 5 CFM
> compressor I have. Perhaps someone with more experience will comment.
>
> Pete Masterson
> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> aeonix1@...
> On the road at Lockhart Texas.
>