water heater replacment

[Robert & Teri Rahn]

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Curt Sprenger"
wrote:
>Glenn, thanks a lot. Sounds like it is going to be a pretty big job.
We are in Mt. now and it is freezing, hopefully I can wait a month
till I am in Warner Robins to do the job.
Robert Rahn
Kalispell, Mt.
88 PT40
> Glen, nice write up. Please add this to the forum so others can
locate it
> when in need.
>
> On 10/15/07, ragster_ga wrote:
> >
> > Robert,
> >
> > One of the first projects on my PT-40 after purchasing last July
was
> > to replace the leaking water heater. While I knew there was a
leak,
> > the damage was hidden and not easy to identify. When I pulled
apart
> > the water heater shelf area, there was softness in the wood below.
> > So it was clear that it had been sitting wet for a long time.
> >
> > In my case, I decided to do a total bed/rear decking replacement.
I
> > spread the work out over a week. My queen bed is centered and
> > against the rear cabinets.
> >
> > I used the Atwood EHM11SST tank to replace the original. It has
all
> > the connections on one side and stainless steel housing. You can
> > find them for around $425 if you shop.
> >
> > On the '86 PT-40, there are two pieces of wood on top of the
engine
> > housing. One goes from the queen all the way to the rear under the
> > cabinets. It has a cut out for an access door to the engine
> > compartment. The wood is on top of a small felt pad which is on
top
> > of the steel engine housing.
> >
> > You should pull the wood over the engine access door to determine
if
> > the felt pad underneath has any moisture. If it does, it will be
> > trapped between the wood and the steel and never escape.
Eventually
> > you will have mold and dry-rot. If this pad is dry...you are a
step
> > ahead.
> >
> > I removed all the rear cabinets below the overhead. The overhead
is
> > self supporting and can remain. There is a heat exchange in the
> > center-bottom of the cabinets that is used for bedroom heat. I did
> > not remove the heat-exchanger, but I did remove the screws
holding it
> > down and removed the wood from under it. This kept me from having
to
> > undo the hot water hoses from the engine. I might be easier to
> > remove it if you have to.
> >
> > Hopefully, when you remove the HWH, you will not have had any
water
> > get under the wood. If you did, and it is contained to just one
> > local area, you could possibly cut out the damaged section and
leave
> > the remaining.
> >
> > In my case, I wanted to be sure I got out all the moisture so I
> > removed everything. I touched up the steel housing (a few
> > scratches). Sealed all the existing screw holes from the old
plywood
> > mount holes. Put down a thin foil insulation pad. Then put down
the
> > plywood. I pre-drilled each hole through the wood / engine housing
> > and attached the new wood with stainless steel screws.
> >
> > Take plenty of pictures to remember how it goes back together if
you
> > have to disassemble anything. There are a lot of very similar
parts
> > in removing the cabinets, that took me a few extra minutes to
> > remember how to get it back together...however it will only go
back
> > one way.
> >
> > The best choice for wood in my opinion is a Marine Grade Plywood.
> > Expensive, but it has glues that will not break down to water
> > exposure. You can special order it through Lowes here in my town.
> >
> > Another choice that might be OK would be to use a copper based
> > pressure treated plywood. Do not use the arsenic based wood,
unless
> > you want to expose someone to the arsenic .
> >
> > When I put the wood back down, I did it in three sections. One
> > section was the width of the coach, and went from the back wall to
> > about one inch forward of the rear cabinet wall (just about 1/2
inch
> > to the rear of the engine access door). Then I put a piece to the
> > left of the access door and another piece to the right of the
access
> > door. I used 3/4" plywood. I also put down new wood for the access
> > door. For it, I used a 1/2" piece because the steel access door is
> > raised about 1/4" from the rest of the housing.
> >
> > Hopefully in your case, you won't have to remove any of the
decking.
> > Be sure that no water has gotten between the wood and the steel
> > housing. If that happens, it will not be apparent by looking at
the
> > top of the wood, but hidden problems will arise over time.
> >
> > If you don't have to replace any wood and not remove the
cabinets, 1
> > day should be no problem. It will be tight getting the HWH out and
> > the new one back in, but it will fit through the door opening. You
> > will need to remove the door and the shelving/panel above, in the
> > rear, and to the driver's side of the HWH to make it easier.
> >
> > I tried to find a pan to put under the HWH but could not find one
to
> > fit. I still would like to custom make a pan and set it under the
> > HWH and have a drain out the rear through the engine compartment
in
> > case of a leak. I did use 3M 4200 marine caulking to seal the
seams
> > to prevent water penetration.
> >
> > The biggest thing you will need is moral support if you have to
pull
> > it all apart. My old body complained for a few days afterwards
from
> > all the bending and weird positions required to remove the rear
> > cabinets.
> >
> > Glenn Allen
> > 1986 PT-40
> > Marietta, GA
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com 40yahoogroups.com>,
> > "Robert & Teri Rahn"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I was able to get back to the water heater and check for leaks.
It
> > is
> > > not leaking out of the pressure relief valve and there is no
> > leaking at
> > > any of the pipes. It is a little wet way back at the corner back
> > there
> > > which must be directly above the hole where the water is
dripping
> > out.
> > > I turned the water heater off a few days ago and water is still
> > > dripping slowly out of the hole in the engine compartment. So
the
> > water
> > > heater must be rusted out and the leak is coming from below it.
> > Where
> > > is the best place to buy one of these heaters and what is the
best
> > way
> > > to remove it? It looks like it is going to be quite a chore to
get
> > it
> > > out of there.
> > >
> > > Robert Rahn
> > > Kalispell, Mt.
> > > 1988 PT 40
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Curt Sprenger
> 1987 PT38 8V92 "MacAttack Racing"
> Anaheim Hills, CA
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>