Roof Trim

[Ralph L. Fullenwider]

Bill:

Yes, that is the tool, the rounded roller works great. You can do both
sides in less than a day. Oh, for the gaskets behind the screws, I replace
them with a thick rubber gasket material I get at an auto parts store. This
is one of those jobs best done if the temp is in the 70's, besides the beer
tastes better! LOL

I use the same grey putty tape on the main awning rail and any roof work
like vents, A/C's and re seal the wiring V wedge covers. The hotter the sun
the tighter this stuff seals, un like foam rubber or silicone sealant.

Safe travels,

Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
Duncan, Oklahoma

At 06:04 PM 1/10/2008 +0000, you wrote:

>Ralph,
>
>The drip rail on our 88 FC is in two pieces each side. about 28ft
>and about 6 ft. I now understand the need for a scaffold and a helper,
>to remove and re-install the rail.
>Is the screen roller, the tool used to replace the screening in a
>door or window ?? it usually has a roller at each end???
>Thanks again,
>
>Bill 88 FC Michigan
>
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Bill:
> >
> > I have re caulked several drip rails on Bird's. Yes there will be
>some
> > paint chipping, the Imron does not seems to adhere to the aluminium
>drip
> > rail trim as well as steel. Behind the screws that attach the rail
>over the
> > rub rail they cover, are small rubber gaskets, much the same idea
>as the
> > diamond plate on the top that sits on the rubber gaskets that the
>screws go
> > through to seal.
> >
> > I use the grey putty tape and put 2 thicknesses in the grove on the
>back
> > made for caulk. There are 2 tools that come in very handy and works
>like a
> > charm, 1. a square caulk remover tool about $.89 at Ace and a
>screen roller
> > tool. I also found if I build a scaffold between 2 ladders, it
>makes the
> > job go so much easier. Anyway, with old caulk removed and new caulk
> > installed and a helper holding the far end of the rail, (most are
>in 2
> > pieces on PT's and end caps) then place the rail over the rub rails
>over
> > the windows and when you put the screws back in the grey putty will
>ooze
> > out and this is a good thing. I use the square tool to trim the
>ooze even
> > with the top of the rail then I use the roller screen tool and
>complete the
> > drip channel by rolling it into the drip rail and form a rain drip
>gutter.
> > It works great!!!
> >
> > Then touch up the paint chips, (the chips are going to happen no
>matter how
> > careful you are.
> >
> > Safe travels,
> >
> > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > 84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
> > Duncan, Oklahoma
> >
> > At 12:13 PM 1/10/2008 +0000, you wrote:
> > >This is the time of year, when I do full Bird detailing. not a fun
>job!!
> > >
> > >There is rain water leaking behind the trim that runs the full
>length
> > >of the Bird above the awnings, on each side This is only an
>exterior
> > >leak , but water runs behind the awnings , then down the windows.
> > >
> > >Has anyone removed this trim and recaulked????
> > >Will the paint chip??
> > >Does the awnings need to be removed???
> > >What type of caulk is used???
> > >It looks like windshield butyl. about 1/4 gap to fill.
> > >
> > >Bill 88 FC Michigan
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>