Roof Trim

[pattypape]

Thanks Ralph,

Just to confirm ,
We are talking about plumbers putty. Comes in a can , ribbon or rope
putty. Old timers used to for glazing the old type wood sash window
glass.

Bill 88 FC Michigan


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
wrote:
>
> Bill:
>
> Yes, that is the tool, the rounded roller works great. You can do
both
> sides in less than a day. Oh, for the gaskets behind the screws, I
replace
> them with a thick rubber gasket material I get at an auto parts
store. This
> is one of those jobs best done if the temp is in the 70's, besides
the beer
> tastes better! LOL
>
> I use the same grey putty tape on the main awning rail and any roof
work
> like vents, A/C's and re seal the wiring V wedge covers. The hotter
the sun
> the tighter this stuff seals, un like foam rubber or silicone
sealant.
>
> Safe travels,
>
> Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> 84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
> Duncan, Oklahoma
>
> At 06:04 PM 1/10/2008 +0000, you wrote:
>
> >Ralph,
> >
> >The drip rail on our 88 FC is in two pieces each side. about 28ft
> >and about 6 ft. I now understand the need for a scaffold and a
helper,
> >to remove and re-install the rail.
> >Is the screen roller, the tool used to replace the screening in a
> >door or window ?? it usually has a roller at each end???
> >Thanks again,
> >
> >Bill 88 FC Michigan
> >
> >
> >--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ralph L. Fullenwider"
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Bill:
> > >
> > > I have re caulked several drip rails on Bird's. Yes there will
be
> >some
> > > paint chipping, the Imron does not seems to adhere to the
aluminium
> >drip
> > > rail trim as well as steel. Behind the screws that attach the
rail
> >over the
> > > rub rail they cover, are small rubber gaskets, much the same
idea
> >as the
> > > diamond plate on the top that sits on the rubber gaskets that
the
> >screws go
> > > through to seal.
> > >
> > > I use the grey putty tape and put 2 thicknesses in the grove on
the
> >back
> > > made for caulk. There are 2 tools that come in very handy and
works
> >like a
> > > charm, 1. a square caulk remover tool about $.89 at Ace and a
> >screen roller
> > > tool. I also found if I build a scaffold between 2 ladders, it
> >makes the
> > > job go so much easier. Anyway, with old caulk removed and new
caulk
> > > installed and a helper holding the far end of the rail, (most
are
> >in 2
> > > pieces on PT's and end caps) then place the rail over the rub
rails
> >over
> > > the windows and when you put the screws back in the grey putty
will
> >ooze
> > > out and this is a good thing. I use the square tool to trim the
> >ooze even
> > > with the top of the rail then I use the roller screen tool and
> >complete the
> > > drip channel by rolling it into the drip rail and form a rain
drip
> >gutter.
> > > It works great!!!
> > >
> > > Then touch up the paint chips, (the chips are going to happen no
> >matter how
> > > careful you are.
> > >
> > > Safe travels,
> > >
> > > Ralph and Charolette Fullenwider
> > > 84FC35 "Ruff Diamond"
> > > Duncan, Oklahoma
> > >
> > > At 12:13 PM 1/10/2008 +0000, you wrote:
> > > >This is the time of year, when I do full Bird detailing. not a
fun
> >job!!
> > > >
> > > >There is rain water leaking behind the trim that runs the full
> >length
> > > >of the Bird above the awnings, on each side This is only an
> >exterior
> > > >leak , but water runs behind the awnings , then down the
windows.
> > > >
> > > >Has anyone removed this trim and recaulked????
> > > >Will the paint chip??
> > > >Does the awnings need to be removed???
> > > >What type of caulk is used???
> > > >It looks like windshield butyl. about 1/4 gap to fill.
> > > >
> > > >Bill 88 FC Michigan
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>