Chassis heat problems

[Don Bradner]

The front valve on mine should keep the front radiator cool when the slide is in
the cool position, but I can see where manual override might be needed.

Both of my gate valves are at similar heights. For reference for anyone
following this thread I've put up a picture with components labeled, here:
http://www.arcatapet.net/image/heaterplumbing.jpg

When I took the top off the Graco pump I lost nearly 5 gallons of coolant! I'm
guessing that is because the top of the radiator is higher still. Couldn't stop
the flow, because the gasket got ripped/destroyed in the removal. I wouldn't
want to try to remove either valve without draining a lot, first!

On 3/16/2008 at 1:15 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:

>Shane may have a different theory.
>Straight through-I guess the theory for the valves in the first place may
>be two fold. One to cut off the hot water to the heater core in summer. I
>never close mine and have not noticed any difference. The fans are off as
>are the slide switch. The hot air blows out of different vents than the
>chassis air. Two, if a leak developed forward of the engine the gate
>valves would stop the leak until repaired. "???????"
>
>My valves bottom and top out.
>
>I do not know where the best place to drain is located. I can see how I
>could change the valve that screws into the right thermostat housing
>without draining and not have much fluid loss. The other one on my coach
>is down low in front of the rear bumper and may be another issue.
>
>Leroy Eckert
>1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
>Dahlonega, GA
>Royale Conversion
>
>Don Bradner wrote:
>Three questions:
>
> Why replace the valve at all, rather than a straight-through?
>
> Did the handle still come to a stop at each end of travel (mine do)?
>
> Where do you drain the coolant in order to get it low enough to remove
>the valves?
>
> On 3/16/2008 at 4:41 PM sfedeli3 wrote:
>
> >Good luck! I sure hope it fixes your problem. I was so darn confounded
> >with mine that I eventually gave up and just listened to Kelly
> >complain about cold feet. Finding the dropped gate was purely
> >accidental. The R&R on the water pump was just some "preventative"
> >maintenance that I had elected to do.
> >
> >-- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> > wrote:
> >>
> >> Shane, that's a new one, thanks!
> >>
> >> Don Bradner
> >> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> >> Eureka, CA
> >>
> >> On 3/16/2008 at 11:13 AM sfedeli3 wrote:
> >>
> >> >Hi Don,
> >> >
> >> > My guess is that one of your gate valves "dropped". Even though the
> >> > valve handle is turning, the inner gate is not lifting. My front heat
> >> >circuit did not work for 3 years. Tried flushing the entire loop,
> >> >replacing sporlans, relays, dash switches, circulating pump and still
> >> >no heat. Finally, removed the gate valve when I pulled the water pump
> >> >to replace it and saw that the gate was in the down position. The
> >> >inner threads had eroded and when you rotated the handle, nothing
> >> >would happen to the gate. I've replaced 2 of the 4 valves with ball
> >> >valves.
> >> >
> >> >Shane Fedeli
> >> >85PT40
> >> >Hershey, PA
> >> >
> >
> >
> >
> >------------------------------------
> >
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> >
> >
> >
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