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03-16-2008, 11:28

I know you will post the result when you find out. I took your photo and looked at mine. If I have a sporlan valve in my system it is in parts unknown. Strange. I don't have any other ideas except something is interrupting the flow in the loop assuming the Graco is actually pumping properly. Did you check the Graco for flow on the bench?

Leroy Eckert
1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
Dahlonega, GA

Don Bradner wrote:

The front valve on mine should keep the front radiator cool when the slide is in the cool position, but
I can see where manual override might be needed.

Both of my gate valves are at similar heights. For reference for anyone following this thread I've put up a picture with components labeled, here:
http://www.arcatapet.net/image/heaterplumbing.jpg

When I took the top off the Graco pump I lost nearly 5 gallons of coolant! I'm guessing that is because the top of the radiator is higher still. Couldn't stop the flow, because the gasket got ripped/destroyed in the removal. I wouldn't want to try to remove either valve without draining a lot, first!

On 3/16/2008 at 1:15 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:

>Shane may have a different theory.
>Straight through-I guess the theory for the valves in the first place may
>be two fold. One to cut off the hot water to the heater core in summer. I
>never close mine and have not noticed any difference. The fans
are off as
>are the slide switch. The hot air blows out of different vents than the
>chassis air. Two, if a leak developed forward of the engine the gate
>valves would stop the leak until repaired. "???????"
>
>My valves bottom and top out.
>
>I do not know where the best place to drain is located. I can see how I
>could change the valve that screws into the right thermostat housing
>without draining and not have much fluid loss. The other one on my coach
>is down low in front of the rear bumper and may be another issue.
>
>Leroy Eckert
>1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
>Dahlonega, GA
>Royale Conversion
>
>Don Bradner <"bluethunder%40arcatapet.com"> wrote:
>Three questions:
>
> Why replace the valve at all, rather than a straight-through?
>

> Did the handle still come to a stop at each end of travel (mine do)?
>
> Where do you drain the coolant in order to get it low enough to remove
>the valves?
>
> On 3/16/2008 at 4:41 PM sfedeli3 wrote:
>
> >Good luck! I sure hope it fixes your problem. I was so darn confounded
> >with mine that I eventually gave up and just listened to Kelly
> >complain about cold feet. Finding the dropped gate was purely
> >accidental. The R&R on the water pump was just some "preventative"
> >maintenance that I had elected to do.
> >
> >-- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "Don Bradner"
> >...> wrote:
> >>
> >> Shane, that's a new one, thanks!
> >>
> >> Don Bradner
> >> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"

> >> Eureka, CA
> >>
> >> On 3/16/2008 at 11:13 AM sfedeli3 wrote:
> >>
> >> >Hi Don,
> >> >
> >> > My guess is that one of your gate valves "dropped". Even though the
> >> > valve handle is turning, the inner gate is not lifting. My front heat
> >> >circuit did not work for 3 years. Tried flushing the entire loop,
> >> >replacing sporlans, relays, dash switches, circulating pump and still
> >> >no heat. Finally, removed the gate valve when I pulled the water pump
> >> >to replace it and saw that the gate was in the down position. The
> >> >inner threads had eroded and when you rotated the handle, nothing
> >> >would happen to the gate. I've replaced 2 of the 4 valves with ball
> >> >valves.
> >> >
> >> >Shane
Fedeli
> >> >85PT40
> >> >Hershey, PA
> >> >
> >
> >
> >
> >------------------------------------
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
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