Chassis heat problems

[pattypape]

Don,
Hmmmmm, this is new good information; runs in reverse and still pumps.
Then it seems like Shane's gate valve input is the thing to check and
Pete's hose blockage another suggestion.

Bill 88 FC Michigan





--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
wrote:
>
> I've seen a lot of strange wiring as well, but that's not the issue
here. Even if the system hadn't worked fine until a few weeks ago, I
did observe the rotational direction with the head off, and it is
correct. This type of pump will probably move fluid in the right
direction when turning the wrong way, although output will be
reduced. It works by "throwing" the water outward from the center
intake to the exterior output. Since the output line is off-center it
is certainly designed to work in one direction, but centrifugal force
will still move it outwards if turning the wrong way.
>
> On 3/16/2008 at 11:23 PM pattypape wrote:
>
> >Don,
> >
> >This is a far out possibility, but, searching for an explanation.
> >I have found some strange wireing errors on my Bird. These Birds
> >were hand wired , and easy to make a mistake, with color-coding
and
> >thousands of connections.
> >So, My suggestion is to check the polarity of the 12 volts, the
pump
> >may be turning in reverse.
> >
> >Bill 88 FC Michigan
> >
> >--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> > wrote:
> >>
> >> I did not pull and bench test the pump. It is pump design I'm
very
> >familiar with (sold a lot of that design over the years), and is
> >mighty simple. So long as it turns easily (it does) and has no
broken
> >blades (it doesn't) there isn't much to go wrong. This design has
no
> >problems with blockages - it will turn freely without pumping
> >anything.
> >>
> >> On 3/16/2008 at 3:28 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:
> >>
> >> >I know you will post the result when you find out. I took your
> >photo and
> >> >looked at mine. If I have a sporlan valve in my system it is in
> >parts
> >> >unknown. Strange. I don't have any other ideas except something
is
> >> >interrupting the flow in the loop assuming the Graco is
actually
> >pumping
> >> >properly. Did you check the Graco for flow on the bench?
> >> >
> >> >Leroy Eckert
> >> >1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> >> >Dahlonega, GA
> >> >
> >> >Don Bradner wrote:
> >> >The front valve on mine should keep the front radiator cool
when
> >the slide
> >> >is in the cool position, but I can see where manual override
might
> >be
> >> >needed.
> >> >
> >> > Both of my gate valves are at similar heights. For reference
for
> >anyone
> >> >following this thread I've put up a picture with components
> >labeled, here:
> >> > http://www.arcatapet.net/image/heaterplumbing.jpg
> >> >
> >> > When I took the top off the Graco pump I lost nearly 5 gallons
of
> >> >coolant! I'm guessing that is because the top of the radiator
is
> >higher
> >> >still. Couldn't stop the flow, because the gasket got
> >ripped/destroyed in
> >> >the removal. I wouldn't want to try to remove either valve
without
> >> >draining a lot, first!
> >> >
> >> > On 3/16/2008 at 1:15 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:
> >> >
> >> > >Shane may have a different theory.
> >> > >Straight through-I guess the theory for the valves in the
first
> >place may
> >> > >be two fold. One to cut off the hot water to the heater core
in
> >summer. I
> >> > >never close mine and have not noticed any difference. The
fans
> >are off as
> >> > >are the slide switch. The hot air blows out of different
vents
> >than the
> >> > >chassis air. Two, if a leak developed forward of the engine
the
> >gate
> >> > >valves would stop the leak until repaired. "???????"
> >> > >
> >> > >My valves bottom and top out.
> >> > >
> >> > >I do not know where the best place to drain is located. I can
> >see how I
> >> > >could change the valve that screws into the right thermostat
> >housing
> >> > >without draining and not have much fluid loss. The other one
on
> >my coach
> >> > >is down low in front of the rear bumper and may be another
issue.
> >> > >
> >> > >Leroy Eckert
> >> > >1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors
> >> > >Dahlonega, GA
> >> > >Royale Conversion
> >> > >
> >> > >Don Bradner wrote:
> >> >
> >> > >Three questions:
> >> > >
> >> > > Why replace the valve at all, rather than a straight-through?
> >> > >
> >> > > Did the handle still come to a stop at each end of travel
(mine
> >do)?
> >> > >
> >> > > Where do you drain the coolant in order to get it low enough
to
> >remove
> >> > >the valves?
> >> > >
> >> > > On 3/16/2008 at 4:41 PM sfedeli3 wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > > >Good luck! I sure hope it fixes your problem. I was so darn
> >confounded
> >> > > >with mine that I eventually gave up and just listened to
Kelly
> >> > > >complain about cold feet. Finding the dropped gate was
purely
> >> > > >accidental. The R&R on the water pump was just
> >some "preventative"
> >> > > >maintenance that I had elected to do.
> >> > > >
> >> > > >-- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> >> > > > wrote:
> >> > > >>
> >> > > >> Shane, that's a new one, thanks!
> >> > > >>
> >> > > >> Don Bradner
> >> > > >> 90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> >> > > >> Eureka, CA
> >> > > >>
> >> > > >> On 3/16/2008 at 11:13 AM sfedeli3 wrote:
> >> > > >>
> >> > > >> >Hi Don,
> >> > > >> >
> >> > > >> > My guess is that one of your gate valves "dropped".
Even
> >though
> >> >the
> >> > > >> > valve handle is turning, the inner gate is not lifting.
My
> >front
> >> >heat
> >> > > >> >circuit did not work for 3 years. Tried flushing the
entire
> >loop,
> >> > > >> >replacing sporlans, relays, dash switches, circulating
pump
> >and
> >> >still
> >> > > >> >no heat. Finally, removed the gate valve when I pulled
the
> >water
> >> >pump
> >> > > >> >to replace it and saw that the gate was in the down
> >position. The
> >> > > >> >inner threads had eroded and when you rotated the
handle,
> >nothing
> >> > > >> >would happen to the gate. I've replaced 2 of the 4
valves
> >with ball
> >> > > >> >valves.
> >> > > >> >
> >> > > >> >Shane Fedeli
> >> > > >> >85PT40
> >> > > >> >Hershey, PA
> >> > > >> >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
> >> > > >
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