Chassis heat problems

[Gregory OConnor]

If the valve is needed??? what is its purpose????? If it was never
used, why have it repalced only to fail again??? could you not just
shell out the guts, braze the stem cap hole shut, screw the stem cap
back on, then add one other valve down line in a more accessable
spot. Don's going to have to replace it again in 2036 anyway.

Cutting the valve apart may help removing it 'piece by piece' then
replace it with a thru pipe to a better spot. Or disassemble the new
valve to reinstall 'part by part'.


Tim alerted me that my mountain bike has two flats... Some repairs
dont hold purpose.
GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "sfedeli3"
<sfedeli3@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Don,
>
> I know that you don't want to hear this- but it was the one that
> you're talking about on the bottom of the water pump that failed on
> mine. Replacing the innards is a good move- and should solve your
> problem. Some plumbing supply houses may carry new gates and seals
for
> the valve, but good luck finding a perfect match. Sadly, I do not
> think that there is any way to replace that valve without having
the
> water pump off- and that is a challenge in itself. Maneuvering a
25 lb
> chunk of iron with fittings and trying to match up the drive gears
was
> a real PITA.
>
> Shane Fedeli
> 85PT40
> Hershey, PA
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> wrote:
> >
> > Back for more. Over the past two days I pulled the two gate
valves
> that I show in the image at
> > http://www.arcatapet.net/image/heaterplumbing.jpg
> >
> > Both looked and operated fine, but I agree a ball valve is much
> better, so I replaced them. Not a fun job getting things out, as
there
> isn't much room to wrench. Had to drop the air conditioning pump
down
> to have room to turn the right-hand one.
> >
> > As I was installing the left ball valve, I happened to notice
that
> there was another valve below the water pump - black with grease,
and
> hard to see - even harder to get to. It wasn't until I came back to
> your post, Shane, to make this post that I happened to read new
> meaning into the "I've replaced 2 of the 4 valves with ball
valves." I
> assumed you meant 2 gates, 1 Sporlan, 1 Bosch, which is what I
knew I
> had; now I'm thinking you meant 4 gate valves. Am I missing a 4th
gate
> valve somewhere?
> >
> > Anyway, I reached down and spun the handle, and spun the handle
some
> more. No stops, either direction. Sigh. I don't think I could get
that
> valve out without removing the water pump, which I really don't
want
> to tackle.
> >
> > So, what I did was to unscrew the top of the valve (a difficult
> thing in its own right), and replace the handle/stem/gate with the
> best of the other two. You can see it here after replacement, as
well
> as the handle of the left-side ball valve:
> http://www.arcatapet.net/image/thirdvalve.jpg
> >
> > A picture of the valve stems is here:
> http://www.arcatapet.net/image/erodedthreads.jpg
> >
> > On the left is the other "good" valve, and on the right is the
bad
> one from below the water pump. The threads are just eroded away
enough
> that the gate will slip somewhat freely on the stem.
> >
> > Unless I can find another valve to look at, tomorrow will be
spent
> filtering 8 gallons of collected coolant for replacement, then
> checking for leaks, etc.
> >
> >
>