Chassis heat problems

[sfedeli3]

Don,

On mine, there are 4 gate valves for the chassis heater circuits and
a 5th for the loop to the water heater.

-Shane

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
wrote:
>
> Never mind - I found a fourth gate valve. This one is down below the
right side of the Sporlan valve, after the water heater circuit
returns. Another hard location, and it is bad. I think I can do the
same replacement of the handle/stem/gate that I did on the other one.
>
> On 3/22/2008 at 8:55 AM Don Bradner wrote:
>
> >I suspect that valve on the bottom of the water pump takes the highest
> >heat and flow, which may explain why it erodes faster. Particularly if
> >there is one exit and two returns. I'm still not clear about whether I
> >should be looking for a fourth gate valve?
> >
> >Unless I ever have to remove the water pump for some other reason,
I don't
> >think that valve will get replaced. I will keep the other decent
core for
> >potential repair in a few years - if push comes to shove I will do what
> >Greg said, gut the valve, and put another immediately downstream. Not
> >necessary to do any major work to gut it, just remove the gate from the
> >stem and discard, then replace the stem.
> >
> >Don Bradner
> >90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
> >Eureka, CA
> >
> >On 3/22/2008 at 1:45 PM sfedeli3 wrote:
> >
> >>Hi Don,
> >>
> >> I know that you don't want to hear this- but it was the one that
> >>you're talking about on the bottom of the water pump that failed on
> >>mine. Replacing the innards is a good move- and should solve your
> >>problem. Some plumbing supply houses may carry new gates and seals for
> >>the valve, but good luck finding a perfect match. Sadly, I do not
> >>think that there is any way to replace that valve without having the
> >>water pump off- and that is a challenge in itself. Maneuvering a 25 lb
> >>chunk of iron with fittings and trying to match up the drive gears was
> >>a real PITA.
> >>
> >>Shane Fedeli
> >>85PT40
> >>Hershey, PA
> >>