Chassis heat problems

[Don Bradner]

I cannot find a fifth valve. Do you have a Sporlan in the circuit back there
like I do? If not, perhaps it is the fifth valve.

The fourth valve turned out not to be bad. The only thing I can surmise is that
it was closed, and I just didn't turn enough times to hit the open stop. Good
thing, because it is a different valve body; not a lot of difference, but the
gate would not fit from one of the others.

Way back in this thread Ron Marabito asked if I had checked the gate valves
because they were notorious for working themselves closed. I replied that they
were opened, and wire-tied open. Of course at that time I thought I was only
talking about two valves. The third and fourth were not tied open. Now they are.

On 3/22/2008 at 6:00 PM sfedeli3 wrote:

>Don,
>
> On mine, there are 4 gate valves for the chassis heater circuits and
>a 5th for the loop to the water heater.
>
>-Shane
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
> wrote:
>>
>> Never mind - I found a fourth gate valve. This one is down below the
>right side of the Sporlan valve, after the water heater circuit
>returns. Another hard location, and it is bad. I think I can do the
>same replacement of the handle/stem/gate that I did on the other one.
>>
>> On 3/22/2008 at 8:55 AM Don Bradner wrote:
>>
>> >I suspect that valve on the bottom of the water pump takes the highest
>> >heat and flow, which may explain why it erodes faster. Particularly if
>> >there is one exit and two returns. I'm still not clear about whether I
>> >should be looking for a fourth gate valve?
>> >
>> >Unless I ever have to remove the water pump for some other reason,
>I don't
>> >think that valve will get replaced. I will keep the other decent
>core for
>> >potential repair in a few years - if push comes to shove I will do what
>> >Greg said, gut the valve, and put another immediately downstream. Not
>> >necessary to do any major work to gut it, just remove the gate from the
>> >stem and discard, then replace the stem.
>> >
>> >Don Bradner
>> >90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
>> >Eureka, CA
>> >
>> >On 3/22/2008 at 1:45 PM sfedeli3 wrote:
>> >
>> >>Hi Don,
>> >>
>> >> I know that you don't want to hear this- but it was the one that
>> >>you're talking about on the bottom of the water pump that failed on
>> >>mine. Replacing the innards is a good move- and should solve your
>> >>problem. Some plumbing supply houses may carry new gates and seals for
>> >>the valve, but good luck finding a perfect match. Sadly, I do not
>> >>think that there is any way to replace that valve without having the
>> >>water pump off- and that is a challenge in itself. Maneuvering a 25 lb
>> >>chunk of iron with fittings and trying to match up the drive gears was
>> >>a real PITA.
>> >>
>> >>Shane Fedeli
>> >>85PT40
>> >>Hershey, PA
>> >>
>
>
>
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