Chassis heat problems

[Don Bradner]

Success! After cleaning things up, filtering/replacing the captured coolant,
plus buying more, then warming the engine up, I have heat again.

For those who wondered whether heat requires the thermostat on the engine to be
open, it doesn't. Well before the gauge hit 100 I had noticeable warmth, and by
the time it was around 120 it could be categorized as hot air.

When checking under the front end for leaks where I removed and re-installed the
Bosch valve there was a discernible rush of fluid as the timer cycled.

My best guess is that the problem was the fourth valve vibrating closed, but the
failing third valve certainly needed to be fixed.

Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
Eureka, CA

On 3/22/2008 at 12:08 PM Don Bradner wrote:

>I cannot find a fifth valve. Do you have a Sporlan in the circuit back
>there like I do? If not, perhaps it is the fifth valve.
>
>The fourth valve turned out not to be bad. The only thing I can surmise is
>that it was closed, and I just didn't turn enough times to hit the open
>stop. Good thing, because it is a different valve body; not a lot of
>difference, but the gate would not fit from one of the others.
>
>Way back in this thread Ron Marabito asked if I had checked the gate
>valves because they were notorious for working themselves closed. I
>replied that they were opened, and wire-tied open. Of course at that time
>I thought I was only talking about two valves. The third and fourth were
>not tied open. Now they are.
>
>On 3/22/2008 at 6:00 PM sfedeli3 wrote:
>
>>Don,
>>
>> On mine, there are 4 gate valves for the chassis heater circuits and
>>a 5th for the loop to the water heater.
>>
>>-Shane
>>
>>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Don Bradner"
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Never mind - I found a fourth gate valve. This one is down below the
>>right side of the Sporlan valve, after the water heater circuit
>>returns. Another hard location, and it is bad. I think I can do the
>>same replacement of the handle/stem/gate that I did on the other one.
>>>
>>> On 3/22/2008 at 8:55 AM Don Bradner wrote:
>>>
>>> >I suspect that valve on the bottom of the water pump takes the highest
>>> >heat and flow, which may explain why it erodes faster. Particularly if
>>> >there is one exit and two returns. I'm still not clear about whether I
>>> >should be looking for a fourth gate valve?
>>> >
>>> >Unless I ever have to remove the water pump for some other reason,
>>I don't
>>> >think that valve will get replaced. I will keep the other decent
>>core for
>>> >potential repair in a few years - if push comes to shove I will do what
>>> >Greg said, gut the valve, and put another immediately downstream. Not
>>> >necessary to do any major work to gut it, just remove the gate from the
>>> >stem and discard, then replace the stem.
>>> >
>>> >Don Bradner
>>> >90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
>>> >Eureka, CA
>>> >
>>> >On 3/22/2008 at 1:45 PM sfedeli3 wrote:
>>> >
>>> >>Hi Don,
>>> >>
>>> >> I know that you don't want to hear this- but it was the one that
>>> >>you're talking about on the bottom of the water pump that failed on
>>> >>mine. Replacing the innards is a good move- and should solve your
>>> >>problem. Some plumbing supply houses may carry new gates and seals for
>>> >>the valve, but good luck finding a perfect match. Sadly, I do not
>>> >>think that there is any way to replace that valve without having the
>>> >>water pump off- and that is a challenge in itself. Maneuvering a 25 lb
>>> >>chunk of iron with fittings and trying to match up the drive gears was
>>> >>a real PITA.
>>> >>
>>> >>Shane Fedeli
>>> >>85PT40
>>> >>Hershey, PA
>>> >>
>>
>>
>>
>>------------------------------------
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Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
Eureka, CA