50a electrical plugs?

[Gregory OConnor]

Just because you are using a 50 amp plug, you dont need to mount a
50 amp fuse.

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
wrote:
>
> Its good to remember that if you are to hook an extention cord to
a
> pedistal or an outlet, the wire gauge to the outlet/pedistal
from
> the E meter should take into account the length of the extention
> cord. I have a 50 amp pedistal that is 500 foot away from my
main
> panel and 150 from a sub. I droped in a 240/30 amp breaker (60 amp
> total) to trip early and not overtax the long run.
>
> GregoryO'Connor
> 94ptRomolandCa
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Pete,
> >
> > > 50 Amp cable carries a _lot_ of electrical potential, so you
do
> need to be
> > > very careful with your choices. Using romex (or romex-like
> products) for an
> > > extension cord may seem like a practical idea
> >
> > Oh no - I was NOT planning on using romex for an extension cord.
> > Electrical codes exist for a reason and I follow them. My
comment
> on
> > romex referred to moving the outlet. My 50 amp service is on the
> side
> > of my house. I need to move it about 20 feet further down the
> house so
> > my existing Wanderlodge cord will reach. I've been told I
shouldn't
> > make a 50 foot long, 50 amp cord, because of problems with
voltage
> > drop.
> >
> > I, however, don't see the difference between these two scenarios:
> >
> > 1. Run an additional 20 feet of romex, in the wall of my house,
to
> > move the outlet, then connect my 30 foot cord.
> >
> > 2. Leave the outlet where it is and just make a 50 foot cord.
> >
> > As far as electrical potential is concerned, if the wire gauge is
> > equal, seems the same thing to me, and number 2 is certainly
> easier.
> >
> > > The National Electrical Code requires buried
> > > wires and/or use of conduit for an exposed location.
> >
> > Yep, and the 30 amp feed I installed for my greenhouse is THWN in
> > buried conduit.
> >
> > > Finally, you might 'get away' with using BX (armored) flexible
> conduit for
> > > your "extension cord", although I'd be concerned that direct
sun
> exposure
> > > would overheat the wires. Obviously, driving over it with your
> coach is very
> > > likely to destroy it.
> >
> > No - I plan to use the same type of material used for the factory
> > extension cord. I'm doing this by the book. Also, I never drive
> over
> > my extension cords - I always move them out of the way before
> moving
> > the coach.
> >
> > > So, my question is, Is that really an output plug?
> >
> > It's possible. I don't have anything like that on my '86. Just
the
> > standard 50 amp input, and a pair of 30 amp inputs (one for each
> leg),
> > and the various cord sets. That output plug would be a real handy
> > feature, though.
> >
> > > (Since we've only had one extended (a few hours) power outage
> here in the
> > > past 25 years, needing the backup power from the generator
seems
> fairly
> > > remote. -- and I can 'tap into' the coach 120 vac system,
should
> the need
> > > arise, with extension cords fed from normal outlets -- that
> would be
> > > sufficient to keep the home refrigerator and freezer 'going'
to
> prevent
> > > spoiled food. I already have sufficient extension cords to
> handle that
> > > possibility.)
> >
> > Yeah - my area has very stable power as well. The longest power
> > outages last just a few hours and come only every few years. The
> last
> > one was last winter, first power outage since I've had my coach.
We
> > just abandoned the house, fired up the generator and watched
> movies in
> > the coach until the power came back. If it would have been too
> long,
> > I'd have powered my deep freezer with an extension cord off the
> coach
> > until power returned, but I've lived here nearly 30 years and
there
> > hasn't once been a power outage long enough to spoil food.
> >
> > -Ryan
> > '86 PT-40 8V92
> >
>