Door repairs

[Gregory OConnor]

The most annoying noise resulting from wind at the entry door comes
from atop the passanger seat. 1- opening up the airvent pressurizes
the cab enough to keep air from entering.(close rear windows also) 2-
Saying "What,,, What,,,, What,,," is effective in reduction of seat
noise. I don't get the 'skin the cat anology' but these are two of
those other ways.

Less weather strip is needed at the hinge side. too much will lift
the hinge and soon distort. hollow strips seem to seal better with
less pressure but when you distort the mechanics, you end up needing
newspaper sticking out the jam.
GregoryO'Connor
94ptRomolandCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, David Brady
wrote:
>
> Yes, that piano hinge doesn't help. It was okay on a school bus
> (with 2 doors meeting in the center), but it's not quite good
enough
> on a single door motorhome. What we need is a true automotive
> style door hinge, which pulls the door out away from the vehicle
> rather than a piano hinge which severely pinches the weather
stripping
> adjacent to the hinge. Alas, we're probably stuck with it.
>
> David
> '02 LXi, NC
>
> Pete Masterson wrote:
> >
> > I've examined the door geometry very closely. It doesn't seem
like
> > there's any real solution -- it appears to be a "feature" (as in
> > "that's not a bug, it's an undocumented feature")... When my
weather
> > stripping was failing, the door was easier to close, but then
there
> > were some air leaks and wind noise. Once I renewed the weather
strip
> > (with a profile that was quite similar to the original) then the
door
> > was a bit harder to close, but the air leaks and wind noise was
gone.
> >
> >
> > I've adjusted to it and have become accustomed to using a firm
hand
> > when closing the door. It's not really an excessive amount of
force,
> > but it is rather more than is required for most vehicles. I
chalk it
> > up to being a Blue Bird quirk.
> >
> > Pete Masterson
> > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > El Sobrante CA
> > aeonix1@...
> >
> >
> >
> > On Jun 12, 2008, at 6:48 PM, brad barton wrote:
> >
> >> Pete,
> >> That is exactly what happens on mine. Very frustrating. Also
no
> >> real way that anyone knows of to adjust it.
> >>
> >> Brad Barton 00LXiDFW bbartonwx@...
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------------------------------------
------------
> >> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> >>
> >> From: aeonix1@...
> >> Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:56:22 -0700
> >> Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Door repairs
> >>
> >> I'll note that the door on my coach must be shut with
authority
> >> (like you mean it) or the automotive-type lock won't latch
> >> properly. This was the situation with the original weather
> >> stripping and with the weather stripping I installed. Once
the
> >> automotive latch is properly activated, then the dead bolt
lines
> >> up properly.
> >>
> >> If you try to open the door with the dead bolt locked, then
when
> >> the automotive latch releases, the pressure on the dead
bolt is
> >> sufficient that the solenoid won't move it. Depending on
which
> >> side of the door you're on, you either have to pull or push
on
> >> the door to relieve the pressure on the dead bolt, then the
> >> solenoid will through the bolt.
> >>
> >> Pete Masterson
> >> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> >> El Sobrante CA
> >> aeonix1@...
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Jun 11, 2008, at 8:22 PM, Gregory OConnor wrote:
> >>
> >> Ryan, when I use the keyless on my '94 I have to push
on the
> >> door to
> >> line up the deadbolt. This is all done blind folded as
I cant
> >> see or
> >> feel what is going on in the jamb. I think someone
replaced the
> >> seal with a too ambitious foam/rubber product. fat
seals endup
> >> causing the door operator to slam and place a hard turn
on the
> >> lock. One other issue is that the door on my 94 is
alumnium and
> >> swells more than the steel frame in the sun. just some
things to
> >> consider with your project
> >>
> >>
> >>
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