Brush gobbler

[thomas_sorrentino]

Ryan,
From what I can see of my slip ring it looks worn just like yours. I
read somewhere that low/no brush spring tension causes that. My spec
number is 135013, three after yours. Please let me know the correct
part number for your slip ring. I'm thinking about buying one to
have on hand, so I'll have two to choose from and be able to finish
the job. Then send the one I don't use back.
The other part they sent you "thin metal strap". I'm not sure if
it's the same thing, but when I installed new brushes, there was a
metal shim on the brush holder mount. I assume to adjust the brushes
to line up with the slip rings. Thanks again for your help.

Tom Sorrentino
1987 PT38
Bedford Hills, NY


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
wrote:
>
> Tom,
>
> They sent me the same exact part # you have.
>
> Here's a picture of my old slip ring:
http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/slipring.jpg
>
> Just look at the wear on that son of a gun! No wonder it was eating
> through brushes. You can also clearly see the inside of the slip
ring.
> Note, no notch. Instead there are those very tiny splines. The
shaft
> on my generator has corresponding splines. My Kohler is model
12.5cc,
> spec 135010.
>
> They also sent me a "Ring, tolerance", part # 238211. I didn't
order
> it. It's a thin metal strap looking thing. Not sure if they
assumed I
> would need it or not, but I've no idea where it would go, as I
don't
> have anything like this on my generator. I guess I'll find out
Monday
> when I talk to them.
>
> -Ryan
>
> On Sun, Jun 15, 2008 at 3:56 AM, thomas_sorrentino
> wrote:
> > Ryan,
> >
> > Thanks for the update. Excellent information. I'm all geared up
to do
> > this at Tom Warners rally next weekend. You've got me wondering
about
> > having the correct slip rings though. The new one I have sounds
just
> > like the one they had sent you (has a large key notch). On the
box
> > it's part number 359447, description ring collector. Is it
possible
> > to post any photo's of what you got and what your suppose to
have? My
> > private e-mail is tomsorrentino at hotmail dot com.
> > Also I'm really curious to see if your old slip ring is worn like
> > mine?
> > Thanks again.
> >
> > Tom Sorrentino
> > 1987 PT38
> > Bedford Hills, NY
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Ryan Wright"
> > wrote:
> >>
> >> Update: Looks like they sent me the wrong slip rings. My shaft &
> > slip
> >> rings have a bunch of tiny splines that hold it in place. The
slip
> >> ring set they shipped me has a large key-notch in it. Bummer -
I'll
> >> have to call them Monday morning and get this straightened out.
> >>
> >> So far, though, folks, this looks to be a relatively easy repair
> >> without taking the generator out. You just run the generator
all the
> >> way out on it's slide, then climb under there. I'm actually
able to
> >> sit up once I'm in there, so my head & upper body is in the
cavity
> >> where the generator sits when closed. Much more comfortable to
work
> > in
> >> a sitting position vs. laying on my back. Take the back "vent"
thing
> >> off, remove the brushes, relays (I think that's what those two
> > little
> >> silver things are), voltage regulator and all other wires. Mark
them
> >> and/or take pictures so you know what goes where (I'll provide
my
> > own
> >> pictures and a better write-up when I'm done). Remove all of the
> > bolts
> >> holding the rear "cap" onto the generator and remove that cap.
> >>
> >> Now you have access. De-solder the two wires on the old slip
rings
> > and
> >> carefully move them out of the way. Use a gear puller to remove
the
> >> bearing and slip rings. This is where I'm at. Then, just re-
assemble
> >> with new parts. No need to pull the generator out of the coach
and
> >> deal with fuel and coolant lines, oil, hydraulic lines and all
that
> >> entails.
> >>
> >> Time spent: Probably 4 hours worth of actual work for me thus
far,
> >> much of it spent trying to get that darn cap off the back of the
> >> generator. Finally took a long stick and tapped it out from the
> > front
> >> (thanks Ralph for the advice). Now that I know what I'm doing, I
> > think
> >> I could get to this point in half the time. In fact, with all
of the
> >> (right!) parts on hand, I'm guessing I could do the entire job
in 4
> > to
> >> 6 hours start to finish next time. That assumes there are no
gotchas
> >> when I start putting it back together, but I can't see any from
> > here.
> >>
> >> If you've ever pulled the transmission out of a car, just dig
in and
> >> do this. This job is a piece of cake by comparison. Well worth
doing
> >> yourself - I've got a measly $100 into the parts. Very happy I
> > didn't
> >> spring for the 4 hour round trip drive and the $1600+ in labor
to
> > get
> >> it done by the pros.
> >>
> >> This is a simplistic explanation but it's a good overview for
those
> > of
> >> you itching to tackle this. As I said, I'll have lots of
pictures
> > and
> >> a more detailed write-up of the procedure available on my web
site
> >> once I'm done. I'll post a link at that time.
> >>
> >> -Ryan
> >> '86 PT-40 8V92, Yanmar powered Kohler 12.5kw genset
> >>
> >>
> >> On Sat, Jun 14, 2008 at 2:30 PM, Ryan Wright
> > wrote:
> >> > Hi Tom,
> >> >
> >> > My parts just arrived Friday night. I spent several hours
under
> > the
> >> > coach this morning and am heading back down there in a little
bit.
> >> > Yes, this can absolutely be done without removing the
generator.
> > It's
> >> > not all that difficult, really. I'll have pictures and such
ready
> > here
> >> > in another week or two. Should have mine finished up by
tomorrow
> > if I
> >> > don't run into any problems.
> >> >
> >> > -Ryan
> >> >
> >> > On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 8:10 PM, thomas_sorrentino
> >> > wrote:
> >> >> Ryan,
> >> >>
> >> >> Any progress on this yet? Tips? Shortcuts? Does it seem like
it
> > can
> >> >> be done without removing the generator? I'm getting ready to
do
> > mine
> >> >> soon.
> >> >>
> >> >> Tom Sorrentino
> >> >> 1987 PT38
> >> >> Bedford Hills, NY
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
>