More questions.
I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position, so
every time we turn
right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to repairing
the guides, or are
they a replace only type item?
I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs for the
coach. I have
thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find any
light bulb info.
Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights? I need
just about every
bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in
between. I'm hoping to
get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once
rather than make 6
trips to the automotive supply house.
Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and get
multiple keys to
the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going to
spend the
afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread that
is going around. I
noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I figure
a good cleaning
is in order.
Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be? I am only
getting 17psi
on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be closer
to 24-25psi.
Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!
Corey and Jenni Graham
1996 PT 42'
Prosper,TX
--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com",
Pete Masterson "aeonix1@..." wrote:
>
>
> On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:
>
> > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the
front
> > of the coach, replaced both
> > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the
sensors on
> > the bay doors, best I
> > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the ground
had
> > broken, but after fixing
> > ground, no luck still.
> > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was
> > disconnected, all seems
> > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather
uncomfortable
> > walking in and sleeping
> > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need
to
> > figure this out.
> >
> > I will begin to list some of the other problems.
> >
> > 1. no key for safe,
>
> Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith to
get
> in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was
famously
> used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.
>
> > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door,
although I
> > can hear it trying.
>
> Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The
> solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the
least
> amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose inside
the
> door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that. Be
> sure the door is tightly closed when you try.
>
> > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside compartment,
> > although I can hear it
> > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays
>
> See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The
key
> to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach.
>
> I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside
cover
> on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then
clean
> and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if you
can
> hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no
sound,
> then there might be a loose wire.
>
> The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was working)
> and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6
and
> 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately
press
> "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).
>
> > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great
> ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told by
the
> previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".
>
> > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other
times
> > it wont engage. It
> > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake
>
> Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my Jake
> brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is malfunctioning.
> During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on the
> system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the DDEC
> unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault in
the
> DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high settings).
> The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.
>
> > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all
the way
> > around, rope light has
> > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing
>
> Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok, but
> the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the light
> and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are
> probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced. I
> mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night) and
> once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.
>
> > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a
broken
> > valve, so I cant get good
> > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to
pressurize,
> > by rigging the valve
> > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.
>
> You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water dump
> valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual slide
> valve behind the tall door.
>
> My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable
speed
> pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion
tank. I
> re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.
>
> I got "flair-it" compression fittings from
pexconnection.com
to
> transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex tubing
> and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread)
fitting
> -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-plumb
the
> drain valve.
>
> > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little
afraid
> > to mess something up.
> >
> Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already
working.
> To use it:
> turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash.
That
> allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the 2000
> watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore
power.
>
> Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-intuitive:
> turn on AC for heat.)
>
> Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a
higher
> temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out of
> various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa.
There
> are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the
fans
> may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the basement
and
> a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40 degrees)
on
> the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in
freezing
> temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep the
> plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.
>
> There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls an
> electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot
> (hydronic) heat.
>
> The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the side-
> island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat). The
> various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan noise,
> depending.
>
> You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you should
> hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below the
A-H
> that will get quite warm when the burner is running.
>
> The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat for
> domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power or
on
> the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if there's
no
> electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you
never
> run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).
>
> The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric element
> can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at 16
> gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner
running.
>
> When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine cooling
> system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.
>
> You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as I
> recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician. The
A-H
> should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some other
> burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain
more
> about the care and operation of the unit.
>
> Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow container)
on
> the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is properly
> filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious
> (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two
years
> I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional
> coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note
that
> there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do
not
> use regular automotive coolant.)
>
> The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if I
> recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not a
big
> drain on your fuel.
>
> >
> > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is
familiar
> > with Bluebirds,
> > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire
coach
> > with me and help with
> > all my little questions.
>
> Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several folks
who
> can help you.
>
> Pete Masterson
> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> El Sobrante CA
> aeonix1@...
>
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