Maiden Voyage Complete!!!

[coreyg67]

Will do Stephen, Thanks

Corey
1996 PT42


--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles"
wrote:
>
>
> Give me a call 1 888 668 4288
> stephen
> dupreeproducts.com
>
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "coreyg67" wrote:
> >
> > More questions.
> >
> > I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked position,
so
> every time we turn
> > right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to
> repairing the guides, or are
> > they a replace only type item?
> >
> > I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement bulbs
for
> the coach. I have
> > thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant find
> any light bulb info.
> > Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for lights?
I
> need just about every
> > bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in
> between. I'm hoping to
> > get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at once
> rather than make 6
> > trips to the automotive supply house.
> >
> > Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything and
get
> multiple keys to
> > the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am going
> to spend the
> > afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps thread
> that is going around. I
> > noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I
> figure a good cleaning
> > is in order.
> >
> > Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be? I
am
> only getting 17psi
> > on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would be
> closer to 24-25psi.
> >
> > Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!
> >
> > Corey and Jenni Graham
> > 1996 PT 42'
> > Prosper,TX
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:
> > >
> > > > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from the
front
> > > > of the coach, replaced both
> > > > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the
sensors on
> > > > the bay doors, best I
> > > > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the
ground had
> > > > broken, but after fixing
> > > > ground, no luck still.
> > > > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire was
> > > > disconnected, all seems
> > > > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather
uncomfortable
> > > > walking in and sleeping
> > > > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really need
to
> > > > figure this out.
> > > >
> > > > I will begin to list some of the other problems.
> > > >
> > > > 1. no key for safe,
> > >
> > > Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a locksmith
to get
> > > in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was
famously
> > > used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.
> > >
> > > > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door,
although I
> > > > can hear it trying.
> > >
> > > Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch. The
> > > solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even the
> least
> > > amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose
inside the
> > > door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on that.
Be
> > > sure the door is tightly closed when you try.
> > >
> > > > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside
compartment,
> > > > although I can hear it
> > > > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays
> > >
> > > See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays. The
key
> > > to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my coach.
> > >
> > > I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the inside
> cover
> > > on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) -- then
clean
> > > and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then (if
you
> can
> > > hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's no
sound,
> > > then there might be a loose wire.
> > >
> > > The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was
working)
> > > and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons (5/6
and
> > > 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then immediately
> press
> > > "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).
> > >
> > > > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great
> > > ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was told
by the
> > > previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".
> > >
> > > > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then other
times
> > > > it wont engage. It
> > > > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake brake
> > >
> > > Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my
Jake
> > > brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is
malfunctioning.
> > > During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer on
the
> > > system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the
DDEC
> > > unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the fault
in the
> > > DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high
settings).
> > > The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.
> > >
> > > > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all
the way
> > > > around, rope light has
> > > > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing
> > >
> > > Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were ok,
but
> > > the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the
light
> > > and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights are
> > > probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be replaced.
I
> > > mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at night)
and
> > > once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.
> > >
> > > > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a
broken
> > > > valve, so I cant get good
> > > > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to
pressurize,
> > > > by rigging the valve
> > > > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.
> > >
> > > You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh water
dump
> > > valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual
slide
> > > valve behind the tall door.
> > >
> > > My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single variable
> speed
> > > pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion
> tank. I
> > > re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.
> > >
> > > I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com
to
> > > transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex
tubing
> > > and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread)
> fitting
> > > -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-
plumb
> the
> > > drain valve.
> > >
> > > > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a little
afraid
> > > > to mess something up.
> > > >
> > > Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already
> working.
> > > To use it:
> > > turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the dash.
That
> > > allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the
2000
> > > watt electric element that works when you're plugged into shore
power.
> > >
> > > Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-
intuitive:
> > > turn on AC for heat.)
> > >
> > > Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to a
higher
> > > temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming out
of
> > > various places. Under the galley and probably under the sofa.
There
> > > are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of the
fans
> > > may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the
basement and
> > > a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40
degrees) on
> > > the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in
freezing
> > > temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and keep
the
> > > plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.
> > >
> > > There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One controls
an
> > > electric toe kick space heater the other controls the aquahot
> > > (hydronic) heat.
> > >
> > > The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the
side-
> > > island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat).
The
> > > various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan
noise,
> > > depending.
> > >
> > > You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you
should
> > > hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just below
the
> A-H
> > > that will get quite warm when the burner is running.
> > >
> > > The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives heat
for
> > > domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore power
or on
> > > the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if
there's no
> > > electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so you
never
> > > run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).
> > >
> > > The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric
element
> > > can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot at
16
> > > gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the burner
> running.
> > >
> > > When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine
cooling
> > > system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.
> > >
> > > You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area as
I
> > > recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service technician.
The
> A-H
> > > should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some
other
> > > burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can explain
more
> > > about the care and operation of the unit.
> > >
> > > Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow
container) on
> > > the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is
properly
> > > filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk serious
> > > (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the two
years
> > > I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any additional
> > > coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60. (Note
that
> > > there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 -- do
not
> > > use regular automotive coolant.)
> > >
> > > The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour (if
I
> > > recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's not
a big
> > > drain on your fuel.
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is
familiar
> > > > with Bluebirds,
> > > > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire
coach
> > > > with me and help with
> > > > all my little questions.
> > >
> > > Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several
folks who
> > > can help you.
> > >
> > > Pete Masterson
> > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > > El Sobrante CA
> > > aeonix1@
> > >
> >
>