Maiden Voyage Complete!!!

[Glenn Allen]

Corey,

On my older unit, there is a valve under the cooktop cover and
another value behind the refrigerator.

My fresh water fill switch is pneumatic....must have air in the Aux
system to work.

If your A/Cs are rooftop, see if you can access the drain from the
roof with a compressed air nozzle.

I don't have any insight to your leveling problems.

Glenn
1986 PT-40
Marietta, GA

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "coreyg67"
wrote:
>
> More questions for you guys!
>
> I spent the majority of the weekend playing around with the coach
to
> try and correct some problems, as well as to better learn my way
> around.
>
> 1. The propane tank shows to be a little over a 1/2 full, and I
> verified this by removing the panel in the driver side bay and
> looking at the guage on the tank itself. Problem is, I cant get
the
> fridge, or the princess cooktop to light. I have checked the main
> valve at the tank, it is on. The LPG master switch is on, and the
> detector pad under the kitchen cabinets has both lights green, so
I'm
> assuming this should tell me the valve is open, and all is
> functioning correctly. I do have a second detector pad mounted to
> the wall above the dinette, (driver side) but cannot get anything
on
> the pad to light up. any suggestions?
>
> 2. I fixed the leak on the freshwater system, but i don't totally
> understand the operation of the switches in the water/sewage
service
> bay. No matter which way i have the switch flipped for the tank
> fill, it appears that the tank continues to fill, and I cant get
any
> pressure from the city side of the system. So far I have had very
> little luck getting any water to pump through the system at all.
I'm
> sure there is an easy method of setting this up properly, but I'm
not
> familiar with this system.
>
> 3. The front A/C unit is leaking water in the coach, so I'm
assuming
> the condensate drain is blocked. I have found the drain (i think)
> for the middle and rear units, but dont know where the drain for
the
> front unit is located?
>
> 4. I'm working on the leveling system, and currently waiting for
a
> return call from HWH. I did find the brain for the system last
night
> in the bay and found three blown 15amp fuses. These were the
three
> fuses servicing the battery input, ignition input, and I don't
recall
> the last input. Hopefully if I can locate the cause of the blown
> fuses, we will finally be able to level the coach. Does anyone
have
> any ideas where I should start to trouble shoot the fuse problem?
>
> Thanks again everyone for all the help, this is so much fun to
learn
> my way around with your help!!
>
> Corey & Jenni Graham
> 1996 PT 42'
>
>
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Birtles"
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Give me a call 1 888 668 4288
> > stephen
> > dupreeproducts.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "coreyg67"
wrote:
> > >
> > > More questions.
> > >
> > > I have several drawers that will not stay in the locked
position,
> so
> > every time we turn
> > > right, the drawers come flying open. Is there any trick to
> > repairing the guides, or are
> > > they a replace only type item?
> > >
> > > I am also having a problem locating a list of replacement
bulbs
> for
> > the coach. I have
> > > thumbed through every manual that came with the bus, and cant
find
> > any light bulb info.
> > > Is there a list somewhere that contains part numbers for
lights?
> I
> > need just about every
> > > bulb in the coach from headlight to taillight and everything in
> > between. I'm hoping to
> > > get a big shopping list and go buy all the necessary bulbs at
once
> > rather than make 6
> > > trips to the automotive supply house.
> > >
> > > Im having a locksmith come out tomorrow to rekey everything
and
> get
> > multiple keys to
> > > the coach so that I can have access to everything, then I am
going
> > to spend the
> > > afternoon cleaning the radiator as I learned in the Temps
thread
> > that is going around. I
> > > noticed temps around 215 for oil, which seemed high to me, so I
> > figure a good cleaning
> > > is in order.
> > >
> > > Can anyone tell me what the full power boost level should be?
I
> am
> > only getting 17psi
> > > on full throttle pulls up hills, and I really figured I would
be
> > closer to 24-25psi.
> > >
> > > Thanks again everyone, sorry Im writing a novel!!
> > >
> > > Corey and Jenni Graham
> > > 1996 PT 42'
> > > Prosper,TX
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson

> > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On Jun 16, 2008, at 8:22 PM, coreyg67 wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Still no luck on the levelers. I pulled the panel from
the
> front
> > > > > of the coach, replaced both
> > > > > fuse #24 and #69 just to see, no luck. Checked all the
> sensors on
> > > > > the bay doors, best I
> > > > > can tell, all are functioning. I did find two that the
> ground had
> > > > > broken, but after fixing
> > > > > ground, no luck still.
> > > > > Pulled HWH panel from wall, and checked to see if wire
was
> > > > > disconnected, all seems
> > > > > proper. So now I'm starting to worry. It is rather
> uncomfortable
> > > > > walking in and sleeping
> > > > > in a coach that is on an incline or angle, so I really
need
> to
> > > > > figure this out.
> > > > >
> > > > > I will begin to list some of the other problems.
> > > > >
> > > > > 1. no key for safe,
> > > >
> > > > Ace key is used (the round ones) -- probably need a
locksmith
> to get
> > > > in to that one. Try the plastic barrel of a pen -- that was
> famously
> > > > used to pick similar locks on bicycle locks.
> > > >
> > > > > 2. door lock button for front door will not lock door,
> although I
> > > > > can hear it trying.
> > > >
> > > > Probably the door isn't correctly aligned with the latch.
The
> > > > solenoid is not very strong and isn't able to overcome even
the
> > least
> > > > amount of friction. It's possible that something is loose
> inside the
> > > > door. You'll have to take off the inside panel to work on
that.
> Be
> > > > sure the door is tightly closed when you try.
> > > >
> > > > > 3. Compartment lock will not lock front curbside
> compartment,
> > > > > although I can hear it
> > > > > trying to. This isnt good, I don't have a key for the bays
> > > >
> > > > See a locksmith about making up a set of keys for the bays.
The
> key
> > > > to the electric hookup cord is the same as the bays on my
coach.
> > > >
> > > > I had one sticky latch on my coach. You can take off the
inside
> > cover
> > > > on the bay door (bunch of screws around the perimeter) --
then
> clean
> > > > and lubricate the latch mechanism. It ought to work, then
(if
> you
> > can
> > > > hear it clicking when you hit the lock button). If there's
no
> sound,
> > > > then there might be a loose wire.
> > > >
> > > > The keyless entry pad will lock the front door (if it was
> working)
> > > > and the compartments by hitting the two right-most buttons
(5/6
> and
> > > > 7/8) at the same time. Enter your 5 digit code then
immediately
> > press
> > > > "6" and that should unlock the bay doors (that work).
> > > >
> > > > > 4. fridge is not cooling, but freezer works great
> > > > ?? What kind of fridge? I have a home-style Amana. I was
told
> by the
> > > > previous owner that it was once recharged with "freon".
> > > >
> > > > > 5. Engine break works great most of the time, but then
other
> times
> > > > > it wont engage. It
> > > > > will still shift transmission for breaking, but no Jake
brake
> > > >
> > > > Possibly a wiring problem -- I have some weirdness with my
> Jake
> > > > brake. I also suspect that the on-off switch is
> malfunctioning.
> > > > During a recent service visit at CCW, they put the computer
on
> the
> > > > system and got a report of a "problem" on the DD side of the
> DDEC
> > > > unit. My Jake brake was apparently rewired to avoid the
fault
> in the
> > > > DDEC (instead of low-med-high, I only have low and high
> settings).
> > > > The "solution" is a new DDEC board -- very expensive.
> > > >
> > > > > 6. standard items such as light bulbs, needs servicing all
> the way
> > > > > around, rope light has
> > > > > several burned out bulbs, needs replacing
> > > >
> > > > Me too. Some of the "burned out" light bulbs actually were
ok,
> but
> > > > the ground or something was not good. Just fiddling with the
> light
> > > > and fixture brought a couple back to life. The rope lights
are
> > > > probably hopeless. The entire rope would have to be
replaced.
> I
> > > > mostly only use the one around the base of the bed (at
night)
> and
> > > > once the novelty wore off, I've rarely turned on the others.
> > > >
> > > > > 7. The fresh water drain in the bay with the pumps has a
> broken
> > > > > valve, so I cant get good
> > > > > pressure from the fresh water system. I did get it to
> pressurize,
> > > > > by rigging the valve
> > > > > shut, and it appears everything is in good working order.
> > > >
> > > > You don't really need that valve anyway. The main fresh
water
> dump
> > > > valve is in the sewer dump side -- a white pipe with manual
> slide
> > > > valve behind the tall door.
> > > >
> > > > My pumps were leaking so I replaced them with a single
variable
> > speed
> > > > pump and I simplified the plumbing, eliminating the expansion
> > tank. I
> > > > re-plumbed the drain valve and installed a brass valve.
> > > >
> > > > I got "flair-it" compression fittings from pexconnection.com
> to
> > > > transfer from the (gray) polybutylene plumbing to (new) Pex
> tubing
> > > > and a "Flair-it" (note the spelling) pex to mpt (pipe thread)
> > fitting
> > > > -- then I used "normal" hardware store plumbing parts to re-
> plumb
> > the
> > > > drain valve.
> > > >
> > > > > 8. I have no idea how to use the aquahot, and I am a
little
> afraid
> > > > > to mess something up.
> > > > >
> > > > Do you have any hot water? If you do, the aquahot is already
> > working.
> > > > To use it:
> > > > turn on aqua hot switch (labeled hydronic heating) on the
dash.
> That
> > > > allows the diesel burner to operate. It has no effect on the
> 2000
> > > > watt electric element that works when you're plugged into
shore
> power.
> > > >
> > > > Turn on the three AC switches on the dash. (This is non-
> intuitive:
> > > > turn on AC for heat.)
> > > >
> > > > Set the Dometic thermostats (the rectangular, gray ones) to
a
> higher
> > > > temperature than ambient. Heat should shortly start coming
out
> of
> > > > various places. Under the galley and probably under the
sofa.
> There
> > > > are little radiators all around. On an older coach, some of
the
> fans
> > > > may not be working. There are also A-H radiators in the
> basement and
> > > > a special low-temperature thermostat (minimum setting 40
> degrees) on
> > > > the forward bulkhead inside the first curbside bay. Use in
> freezing
> > > > temperature situations to keep the bays from freezing and
keep
> the
> > > > plumbing (in the basement) from freezing.
> > > >
> > > > There are two "regular" thermostats in the bath. One
controls
> an
> > > > electric toe kick space heater the other controls the
aquahot
> > > > (hydronic) heat.
> > > >
> > > > The heat in the bedroom comes out from behind the bed in the
> side-
> > > > island arrangement. (controlled by the bedroom thermostat).
> The
> > > > various hydronic heaters will have a little or a lot of fan
> noise,
> > > > depending.
> > > >
> > > > You can check the A-H unit, when the heat is turned on, you
> should
> > > > hear the burner start up. There is an exhaust pipe just
below
> the
> > A-H
> > > > that will get quite warm when the burner is running.
> > > >
> > > > The A-H also has a 2000 watt electric element that gives
heat
> for
> > > > domestic hot water when the coach is plugged in to shore
power
> or on
> > > > the generator. The burner (burns diesel) will fire up if
> there's no
> > > > electricity. The A-H is a continuous flow water heater, so
you
> never
> > > > run out of hot water (if everything is set properly).
> > > >
> > > > The hot water in the A-H is about 16 gallons, the electric
> element
> > > > can't keep up with (say) a shower, so you'll run out of hot
at
> 16
> > > > gallons. You can take an endless shower if you have the
burner
> > running.
> > > >
> > > > When you're on the road, the A-H gets heat from the engine
> cooling
> > > > system to provide hot water and hydronic heating.
> > > >
> > > > You should probably contact A-H (they're in the Denver area
as
> I
> > > > recall) and get a referral to a local A-H service
technician.
> The
> > A-H
> > > > should have the burner orifice replaced annually and some
> other
> > > > burner compartment cleaning, etc. An A-H technician can
explain
> more
> > > > about the care and operation of the unit.
> > > >
> > > > Be absolutely sure that the coolant (see the overflow
> container) on
> > > > the bulkhead behind and to one side of the A-H system) is
> properly
> > > > filled. Running the burner without coolant will risk
serious
> > > > (expensive) internal damage to the burner section. In the
two
> years
> > > > I've had my coach, the A-H has rarely required any
additional
> > > > coolant. Use the same stuff you use for the DD series 60.
(Note
> that
> > > > there are specific coolant requirements for the Series 60 --
do
> not
> > > > use regular automotive coolant.)
> > > >
> > > > The burner uses about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of diesel per hour
(if
> I
> > > > recall correctly). But it doesn't run all the time so it's
not
> a big
> > > > drain on your fuel.
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I guess I need to find someone in the DFW area whom is
> familiar
> > > > > with Bluebirds,
> > > > > preferably a 96', and pay them to walk through the entire
> coach
> > > > > with me and help with
> > > > > all my little questions.
> > > >
> > > > Go to a Lone Star Birds rally -- there are usually several
> folks who
> > > > can help you.
> > > >
> > > > Pete Masterson
> > > > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> > > > El Sobrante CA
> > > > aeonix1@
> > > >
> > >
> >
>