electrical problems

[Juergen]

Mike Here is where I am at a loss as to why you get 250 V when only one wire either green or bare makes contact. I know that 2 hot and one ground =250V I do not understand why the bare wire contact then allows two 110 V. And like I said before, I never try to put or pull the plug UNLESS the CBs are OFF. The way I read your post, I could survive or not even get a 250 surge even if the bare wire is not making contact. I cannot say for sure, but I also will never try it. Electric system is too costly. All I know is 250 V will really brighten up your lights for a brief moment and fry all the other components. Been there done that (in my house.) Juertgen in PA 1991 WLSP36 --- On Fri, 8/29/08, mbulriss <mbulriss@...> wrote: From: mbulriss <mbulriss@...> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Electrical problems To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, August 29, 2008, 3:45 PM As much as I dislike messing with electrical problems, especially 30 and 50 amp stuff, I agree with Gary on this one - there is only one common wire in the cable, two hot, and one ground. I just recently posted about losing my neutral connection in my power cord plug that goes into the pedestal, so it is somewhat fresh in my mind. The round or 'u' shaped lug is the ground wire (green sheathing). The two spade lugs on either side are hot (black and red sheaths) and the bottom spade lug opposite the rounded one is the shared neutral (white wire). There is only one shared ground for both legs and one shared neutral for both hot legs. Given the recent problems for Don and myself, this should be an item on everyone's to-do list to open their plugs and check to make sure the wire connections are tight. I know, hard to do on a molded plug. These plugs and cords get lots of play wiggling them in and out of the pedestals and coaches. I replaced mine with the new style yellow plug end that has a molded handle built into the back. That way I have a better grip to firmly insert/remove the plug without having to wiggle the cord also. (Just remember that I then had to replace my 50-30 dogbone converter since the heavy ground lug on the new plug would not go into my old converter cord.) This is the way I understand the plug wiring. And yes, I am relatively happy that I lost the neutral rather than the ground. At least I did not fry anything really important to me (like me, my wife, friends, pets, bus) other than the pedestal outlet. That's my story and I'm sticking to it - at least for this post! TGIF! TGIF! Mike Bulriss 1991 WB40 "Texas Minivan" San Antonio, TX --- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "Juergen" wrote: > > --- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", "Gary Smith" > wrote: > > > > While I have some minor disagreements with some of what Juergen said > (there is only one common wire in the cable, two hot, and one ground), > with loose wires, it is possible you crossed the two 120v hot lines, > providing the high voltage he suggests. I believe the whole problem > was caused by the poor connections, Don. Not sure how the ProSine > should react to 240v hitting it, but could well weld some contacts, as > you found. > > Gary > > SOB > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Juergen > > To: "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com" > > Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 8:27 AM > > Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Electrical problems > > > > > > All I do know is that if you put the 2 hot wires, or put the > 2 hot spades into the socket and let only the third wire do the > ground, you will get a 250V zap. The 4th wire is the ground for the > other hot one. I don't know the details exactly, but whenever you let > 2 hot and only 1 ground enter, you go BOOM. I know that you must have > all 4 wires, contacts, firmly connected before you turn the breakers on. > Black=hot > Red=Hot > White = Ground, > Bare wire = ground > These four must be in solid contact. > Juergen in PA > 1991 WLSP 36 >