Broken Cord on Michelin Tire

[Henry Jay Hannigan]

Neil:
After reading about everything on tire inflation, the only result I
can see with inflating to the max indicated on the sidewall is a
BUMPIER ride and better gas mileage. If Max Load to Max air is
safe, it seems that max air to less than max load would be just as
safe unless you have an example........I know the BUMPY ride part....
I'm just a hard headed old fart!

take care..
Regards,
Hank
90SP36 at 120PSI
Honda accord at 35PSI
the max on the sidewall for each tyre











--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Neil & Pat"
wrote:
>
> Hank, there is no question that under inflation is significantly
more
> harmful (and dangerous) that over inflation. However, as I listed
in my
> earlier response there are numerous problems with over inflation
including
> some which potentially dangerous or expensive or adversely affect
ride
> comfort. Note the maximum pressure on the sidewall is the correct
pressure
> only when the tire is loaded to the maximum load also shown on the
sidewall.
> In your case you obviously have gotten by with operating at the
maximum and
> have accepted whatever negative that procedure brings. I sincerely
hope
> that your good luck continues into the future.
>
> Regards,
> Neil
> Author, The Rver's Ultimate Survival Guide
> http://www.rvsafetyinfo.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Henry Jay
Hannigan
> Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 9:55 AM
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Broken Cord on Michelin Tire
>
> NEIL:
> Aint it safest just to fill air to whatever MAX it says on the
> tire????? Anyway...that's what I've done on my BIRD and my car for
> umpteen years.......
> Regards,
> Hank
> 90SP36
>
> PS I have 12R22.5 Bridgestones on the BIRD and Goodyears on the
> Honda toad.
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> , "Neil & Pat"

> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Pete, David, Greg, Randy and all else who have been following
> this
> > thread. You called for a tire engineer to make input into this
> subject;
> > well I have been doing that for 36 years now and also happen to
own
> and
> > operate a Wanderlodge (PT-36 ) for the past 12 years and have
> written
> > extensively on the subject of RV safety in my book on the subject
> as well as
> > respond to many of the tire questions posed on this and other
> forums.
> > Perhaps I can help.
> >
> > The original question was re: a broken belt (actually shifted) on
a
> Michelin
> > tire with the thought was this a problem on the Michelin tires and
> would it
> > be subject to warranty. At 27k miles the tire problem in question
> is
> > almost certainly the result of a "road hazard" either a rock,
> shoulder drop
> > off, hitting a curb or possibly even improper usage of "chocks"
for
> leveling
> > or other purposes. Had it been a manufacturing problem it would
> have shown
> > up much before that time. You did receive proper advice in that
> this is not
> > a warrantable condition by the manufacturer but often dealers do
> provide
> > "road hazard" protection as a service to their customers.
> >
> > This is one of the major differences between truck tires and those
> used on
> > automobiles; in order to carry heavy loads much higher pressures
> are used
> > and the tire is normally operated at a lower deflection rating. On
> trucks
> > the deflection of the sidewall when normally inflated is on
average
> 8% by
> > design when it is properly inflated for the load carried, in
> contrast on an
> > automobile tire the deflection is approximately 12%, thus,
yielding
> a
> > smoother ride and a tire less susceptible to impact loads as
> mentioned
> > above. For your interest aviation tires actually operate at 32%
> deflection
> > to carry the immense loads involved but do so with a duty cycle
> limited to a
> > few seconds. The "hoop strength" of the belt package" is under
> immense
> > tension from the inflation of the tire becoming more and more
rigid
> and
> > unyielding as pressure goes up making the tire much more critical
> to this
> > type of abuse. So for our RVs we have a quandary, RVs are the only
> vehicles
> > on the road, which operate at 100% of the capability 100% of the
> time making
> > their safe operation somewhat precarious. We must carry the
> correct (high)
> > amount of air pressure to carry the load (at the correct
deflection
> rate)
> > but should not exceed that pressure or operate below the required
> amount.
> > Higher pressure than required will yield decreased steering power,
> braking
> > power, higher impact type damage as well as decrease life; too
low a
> > pressure will result in over deflection, hotter running
temperatures
> > (possibly destructive), poor handling, greatly reduced life and
the
> > potential for catastrophic premature failure. Take your pick, but
> none of
> > these options are very appealing to me.
> >
> > The above realities of life is the reason why the tire
> manufacturers, the
> > RVSEF and myself all repeatedly attend and lecture at rallies and
> anywhere
> > RVers gather to spread the word that RVs are different and incur
> > considerably more operator responsibilities from the
> owner/operators. It is
> > absolutely essential that you have your RV weighed properly wheel
> by wheel
> > to assure that none are overloaded and then and only then
determine
> the
> > correct pressure for your specific RV under the conditions you
> operate it.
> > Plain and simple there is no other way.
> >
> > Always happy to be of assistance:
> >
> > Neil LeKander
> > Author, The Rver's Ultimate Survial Guide
> > http://www.rvsafetyinfo.com
> >
> > less likely to crush to the wheel rim, possibly protecting the
tire
> > from pinching damage, but the high pressure would also place the
> tire
> > under tension pressure ... so???
> >
> > Any tire engineers out there?
> >
> > Pete Masterson
> >
>