94pt 'cool o matic' gally exhaust fan

[g_man1146]

Greg,

I took the easy way out when we had our '90 with the same fan and
switch setup. I re-installed the switch near it's original location
inside the fan with the shaft facing down. Then I drilled a hole and
fabricated a removable, long shaft knob. I had a sliding fan cover
that required removing the knob to close.

Rich D. '99LXi43' CT

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
wrote:
>
> My center exhaust fan is a 12 volt roof mount exhaust. I keep it
> running on a wall mounted thermostat(as designed) set at 90degF
> with a window open and a cheap home style heater duct filter in the
> window. works good, the filter gets choked with dust that would
> otherwise settle in the parked bus or fan blades and motor(should
> have a window open at each end but am too lazy).
>
> I took the fan housing apart to clean and lube a noisy bearing and
> uncovered a stowed three speed switch under the fan. the switch
says
> potentiometer and has two springs at back which I believe are heat
> sinks (they get hot). I would like to have access to the switch to
> reduce the speed while drycamping (layoff Leroy) and conserve
> battery. I also like the idea of a slower moving fan while stored
> and unattended and a higher speed fan while cooking.
>
> I was thinking of hard wireing around the switch and moving the
> potentiometer/switch to the wall near the thermostat . if you have
> the switch where the fan mfg designed (thru a hole in the cover)
you
> cant slid in the headliner blank. Prob with moving the switch is
> the "heat sink" in the wall???? I dont even know if the thermostat
> has a wire 'to the fan' or 'to a relay - to the fan'??? also of
> concern is the need for a heat sink?? does a product that produce
> heat (pot switch),not consume energy?? would a rheostat be a better
> choice for the wall??? gotta learn more about potentiometer vs
> rheostat, both cool words but must be more to their differences.
>
> Greg94ptCa
>