94pt 'cool o matic' gally exhaust fan

[Don Bradner]

Hmm. You did a good job - I didn't know that the configuration wasn't stock!
Some intermediate owner made off with the knob, so when I want to adjust I use a
pair of needle-nose pliers. Keep meaning to pick up a knob at an electronics
supply, but it hasn't been a priority.

Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder" (original owner Rich D)
Posting today by satellite from Selma, North Carolina
My location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1

On 10/2/2008 at 1:35 PM g_man1146 wrote:

>Greg,
>
>I took the easy way out when we had our '90 with the same fan and
>switch setup. I re-installed the switch near it's original location
>inside the fan with the shaft facing down. Then I drilled a hole and
>fabricated a removable, long shaft knob. I had a sliding fan cover
>that required removing the knob to close.
>
>Rich D. '99LXi43' CT
>
>--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Gregory OConnor"
> wrote:
>>
>> My center exhaust fan is a 12 volt roof mount exhaust. I keep it
>> running on a wall mounted thermostat(as designed) set at 90degF
>> with a window open and a cheap home style heater duct filter in the
>> window. works good, the filter gets choked with dust that would
>> otherwise settle in the parked bus or fan blades and motor(should
>> have a window open at each end but am too lazy).
>>
>> I took the fan housing apart to clean and lube a noisy bearing and
>> uncovered a stowed three speed switch under the fan. the switch
>says
>> potentiometer and has two springs at back which I believe are heat
>> sinks (they get hot). I would like to have access to the switch to
>> reduce the speed while drycamping (layoff Leroy) and conserve
>> battery. I also like the idea of a slower moving fan while stored
>> and unattended and a higher speed fan while cooking.
>>
>> I was thinking of hard wireing around the switch and moving the
>> potentiometer/switch to the wall near the thermostat . if you have
>> the switch where the fan mfg designed (thru a hole in the cover)
>you
>> cant slid in the headliner blank. Prob with moving the switch is
>> the "heat sink" in the wall???? I dont even know if the thermostat
>> has a wire 'to the fan' or 'to a relay - to the fan'??? also of
>> concern is the need for a heat sink?? does a product that produce
>> heat (pot switch),not consume energy?? would a rheostat be a better
>> choice for the wall??? gotta learn more about potentiometer vs
>> rheostat, both cool words but must be more to their differences.
>>
>> Greg94ptCa
>>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
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Don Bradner
90 PT40 "Blue Thunder"
My location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1