Inverter Wiring

[Gregory OConnor]

Pete, there is a group of switches that stand between the 120V
electric panel and the receptical/appliance. when you power on the
inverter I believe the inverter sends 12volts to the On On switch
and removes shore/gen 120v (what ever the transfer switch is sending)
and paths the power from the inverter.ON1= shore/gen ON2=inverter.
If the switch fails one of the inverterpowered paths wont switch
between the two choices

Wierd thing is I cant seem to understand how the
receptical/appliance is then protected. The power no longer rus thru
the houshhold style pandnel breaker box but goes directly from the
inverter total output source. I guess any leg once powered by
inverter then has the ability to draw 12.5 amps (or 30 amps if the
individual inverter is a 3600watt). would be good to understand the
protection of circuit wires when you add a larger inverter and more
demand.
Greg94ptCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson
wrote:
>
> The inverters in a BB are set up with their own distribution
wiring
> (separate from the main 120 vac panel). So, follow the output
wires
> from the inverter and you should find a distribution system
(possibly
> with circuit breakers) somewhere nearby. You can 'join' a new
wire
> there (or set up an additional circuit breaker) to run to the
> location of the freezer.
>
> Load: you first need to determine what the general load on the
> inverter is at present. What devices are attached and how many
are
> used at the same time? It may be that all the available load is
> (potentially) used up by the existing appliances.
>
> Appliances almost always have watt or amp ratings on them (usually
on
> a tag by the manufacturer's name on the back). To ease
calculations,
> convert all ratings to either watts or amps. (Amps x volts (120)
=
> watts or Watts divided by volts (120) = amps) So, a 1500 watt
> inverter can handle about 12.5 amps in total. You should leave a
> couple hundred watts (2 amps or so) "free" to allow for
calculation
> errors and electrical efficiency. Motors (which don't "like"
certain
> types of inverters) prefer "true sine wave" power -- something an
> older inverter may not provide. Motors (the freezer compressor)
also
> draw as much at 50 more power at start up than their rating, so
> allowance must be made for that, as well.
>
> In all probability, the inverter on your coach is already wired up
to
> use most of its maximum rated power for the appliances already
> attached. I expect, depending on the size of the freezer, that
you
> will find that it draws anywhere from 6 to 8 amps up to around 10
> amps. (Remember to add for the brief overload for motor start up.)
>
> So, the solution(s) are (1) upgrade the existing inverter from a
1500
> watt unit to a 2500 watt, true sine wave unit or (2) add a second
> inverter of about 1000-1500 watts (depending on the size of your
> freezer) to handle only the freezer circuit.
>
> Keep in mind that the additional 'juice' required for the
inverter
> will come at the expense of the batteries. If you only use the
> freezer/inverter while on the road, the engine alternator should
be
> replenishing the house batteries to offset the load, but while
> parked, the house batteries will need to provide the inverter
power,
> and I know from personal experience (I have a home-style 22 cu ft
> side-by-side refrigerator-freezer) that refrigeration can draw
down
> batteries rather quickly. You may need to consider adding
additional
> house batteries (or otherwise increasing the available amp-hours)
to
> compensate for the additional demand.
>
> Pete Masterson
> '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
> aeonix1@...
> On the road at Edinburg, VA
>
>
>
> On Oct 20, 2008, at 8:42 PM, Don Spithaler wrote:
>
> > Guys---I want to set a small freezer in one my outside bays.
There is
> > a plug there but how do I wire it to run off the inverter while
going
> > down the road? How would I know if it will run off a 1500 W
inverter?
> > Thanks
> > Don Spithaler
> > 89 SP 36'
> > Butler, PA
> >
>