Losing coolant

[David Brady]

Don,



At some point I think you mentioned pre-warming your engine

to 100 deg F prior to start, otherwise you get tons of smoke

out the exhaust. Randy mentioned that the 2-stroke diesels

will leak coolant into the cylinders when cold due to o-ring

shrinkage on the liners. Maybe this is what your seeing.



David Brady

'02 LXi, NC



Gregory OConnor wrote:

There are two springs in the cap a puke and a suck. when the rad

fluid cools it creates a vacumn and sucks the puked fluid out of

the p tank and back into the system. Could be the return path

(suck) is screwed and letting air enter on the path of least r

theory some place. then when it pukes again the tank is overfilled.

I think the suck is more of a check valve than a presssure thing????



I see your point about boil and 250 degree but I bet lots'a water up

against the block gets close to 250 and sees greater expansion. we

read 195 relative temp at a place remote to the heated area being

cooled.

I wonder if seven is the way to go but the puke tank is not sized

properly considering the large volumn of fluid to displace in the

Wanderlodge application.



One of those places where fluid level wont prove a shutdown. if you

are running the bus hot and pucking fluid in the tank that holds the

level sender. may have been one of Rons lost chances for early shut

down.



Greg94ptCa

--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com",
"Don Bradner"

...> wrote:

>

> The parts book that came with this coach calls for a 7 lb. I have

no idea when this one was changed to a 13 lb.

>

> There is a thread back in March of 2007 starting with post 20947

where Curt Sprenger said:

>

> "Coolant Pressure Control Cap...the 92 series manual recommends all

> series 92 on-highway vehicle engines use a minimum 9 psi control

cap.

> My radiator cap is a 7 psi. Is this a Bluebird change? What are

others

> using? Should I be concerned? The engine temperature runs at about


185

> to 195."

>

> That thread ended up being more about alarmstats, misters, etc.

but besides you (Leroy) mentioning that you had a 13, Pete posted in

that thread that the shop that did his radiator replaced with a 15.

>

> I'm going to guess that a higher one gets used precisely because

the 7 lb, as it loses strength, tends to let more slop out.

>

> If you think about it, a 7 lb with a boiling point somewhere above


230 degrees is into temperatures where the engine would be in real

trouble anyway. Increasing the cap pressure to 13 takes boiling to

250, but does that really matter?

>

> I'm thinking I will go looking for a new cap tomorrow as an

easy "maybe fix", and I will look for one around the same 13 lbs.

>

> On 10/23/2008 at 6:17 PM Leroy Eckert wrote:

>

> >I have a 13lb cap also and it is old. Same year.

> >Leroy Eckert

> >1990 WB-40 Smoke N Mirrors

> >Dahlonega, GA

> >Royale Conversion

> >

> >--- On Thu, 10/23/08, Joyce and Richard Hayden .>


wrote:

> >From: Joyce and Richard Hayden .>

> >Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Losing coolant

> >To: "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com"

> >Date: Thursday, October 23, 2008, 8:32 PM

> >

> >Don, I would wonder why someone has put a 13 # cap on your

cooling

> >system. The standard for these engines have been 7#. I
haven't

heard

> >of very many with anything above that.

> >

> >Dick Hayden - '87 PT 38 - Lake Stevens, WA - still in Medford,
OR

but on

> >the road again tomorrow after the tranny is fixed.

>

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