The Series 60 takes approximately 40 quarts (10 gallons) of oil with a change and filter replacement. The oil to use is one made for heavy duty diesel trucks, 10-40 wt. Delo (Chevron) or Rotella (Shell) are suitable. It should be done annually or every 10,000 miles (or so) whichever comes first. There are also some synthetic alternatives, but I haven't used them. There is possibly a slight MPG increase obtainable with a synthetic -- but the change frequency remains the same (so it costs more).
I've never _just_ had the oil changed when I've taken my coach into a heavy duty truck/bus/RV shop, so it's hard to separate out the cost of just the oil changed. I also had the transmission fluid changed and the transmission fluid filters replaced during the service. That's somewhat more labor intensive than just an oil change. (And after I had it done this year, I realized I'd had it done the previous year -- and it's actually a
3-year cycle, so I wasted some money on that.) The transmission should use "TranSynd" synthetic transmission fluid (of the appropriate weight for your transmission) . Since the stuff is used for 3 years, the synthetic makes good sense.
I've also asked the service provider tolubricateall chassis fittings (that they can find), check and renew all fluids, etc. So, I've paid for that labor as well. The service I had done at a local shop was $832 (SF Bay Area labor rates) that included the oil change, transmission change, and other lube and services.
The next "regular" service was done at CCW in Riverside ... but there was a long list of minor to not-so-minor gripes to attend to and that bill exceeded $5000 -- but the muffler (with installation) for about $1200 and the repair of a broken shock mount (over $1000) was included on that bill. I'd guess the lube and oil stuff was about
$1200 of the total bill. I also paid to have the bottom rear 1/3 of the bus and engine steam cleaned in that bill (it makes it easier to work on).
============ ========= ========= ========= ========
Pete Masterson, Author of
Book
Design and Production: A Guide for Authors and Publishers
"Aeonix1@Mac.com"
Aeonix Publishing Group http://www.aeonix. com
============ ========= ========= ========= ========
On Nov 20, 2008, at 12:04 PM, Ron Thompson wrote:
Pete,
Curious how much it costs you to have the oil changed in your series 60?
And do you also have the generator changed at the same time?
I
haven't changed my oil so far since I have had this RV since I have only put about 1200 miles on it and the oil had been changed at the dealers when I bought it.
Appreciate your answer, since I need to probably change my oil just due to its age in the motors. I have been so busy with other things that I have not made any trips at all to speak of. Just acouple of 400 mile round trippers. Maybe three of them.
Ron Thompson -Waller, Tx.
1995 WLWB 42'
("cockyfox@sbcglobal.net")
--- OnThu, 11/20/08, Pete Masterson<"aeonix1@mac.com">wrote:
From: Pete Masterson <"aeonix1@mac.com">
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Annual Maintenance / Repair Cost
To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"
Date: Thursday, November 20, 2008, 11:08 AM
I'd say the $3000 figure will more than cover the routine annual
maintenance (without tires). I've paid a shop to perform oil changes
and other lubrication and filter replacement. The typical service
bill has been about $1000 to $1500, depending on the variety of items
needing attention. This basic
oil-change and lubrication service (and
fixing any minor running gear gripes) is done annually, usually in
the spring before I do any lengthy trips. I'm probably facing a brake
lining change sometime soon -- and I'll call around for estimates for
that.
The repair/upgrade situation is harder. If you find a cream puff that
you are perfectly happy with in it's current condition, you might
spend relatively little on cosmetic repairs or upgrades. In my case,
at the time of purchase, I budgeted another $20,000 for "unexpected"
repairs and
upgrades. -- In the end, it wasn't a bad estimate but I
haven't totaled things up recently to see where I stand.
"Unexpected repairs" included replacing the radiator core; aligning
the wheels and replacing a bent and broken Blue Ox True Center
steering device; replacing the house batteries that had been abused
while the bus was in various dealers hands for 7 months before I
bought it; and repairing a failed upper shock-mount on the street
side front axle. I have a misbehaving inverter that I'll have to
remove and (more fully) troubleshoot -- I'm assuming that I'll
probably have to replace it (I'll most probably get a remanufactured
unit).
A semi-unexpected repair was the replacement of the muffler.
Upgrades include remodeling the forward salon to a more "office like"
arrangement (with desk and filing cabinets) to accommodate my
business while on the road. Replacing the carpet (and kitchen tile)
with bamboo wood flooring. Recovering some of the fabric on the
window valances and recovering the worn wall paper on the walls.
There are also a not unusual handful of minor glitches (bad switch
here, vent fan motor there) that require dealing with
from time to
time. Most of these aren't dreadfully expensive, but some leeway in
the maintenance budget is required to cover these items.
Every Wanderlodge has its share of electrical glitches to
troubleshoot. (I suspect that this is the case with most any older RV
-- but WLs have more systems, hence more that might go wrong.) I
believe this is inherent in the wire-run length of the 12 VCD
systems. The 120 VAC systems don't seem to ever cause much trouble
(other than somewhat predictable issues with inverters and/or
transfer switches).
Also, as the vehicle ages, various appliances
(especially TVs and Microwaves) may need upgrade/replacement -- but
those occur on much the same schedule as your home appliances.
I doubt that a Prevost would be much different in its overall
reliability. Many carry very similar appliances as Wanderlodges --
and the physics that cause 12 VDC to be unreliable in a 40' vehicle
applies equally to any 40' bus.
Keep in mind that you can do many of the maintenance things for
yourself. Often it's a matter of time vs. money. If you have the
time, you can DIY -- if you prefer to spend the money,
then it will
cost more. I do the basic oil-change and lube job with a shop because
I really have no desire to deal with nearly 10 gallons of oil drained
from the engine. I'd rather have a shop take care if it. I have done
my own oil changes for the generator -- as it only takes a couple of
gallons of oil -- well within my capability of handling. I also note
that I don't have a good place to work on my coach (I park it on the
street in front of my house). That's a factor in what I decide to do
for my self vs. what I pay others to do.
Pete
Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
"aeonix1%40mac.com"
On the road at Lockhart, TX
On Nov 19, 2008, at 8:21 PM, Dave Mayo wrote:
> In reading these type forums one would get the impression that a
> motorhome is constantly broken and being repaired. That is the nature
> of this type forum to discuss mechanical issues.
>
> I'm interested in getting an idea of the ballpark annual cost for non-
> routine repair for a mid 1990's Wanderlodge. I am also interested in
> a ballpark cost of annual routine maintenance.
>
> In planning a budget should one plan on $3,000 per year; $5,000 per
> year; $10,000 or more.
>
> Outside of the cost of purchase, depreciation, etc. how rich does
> one's blood need to be to afford the maintenance on a Bluebird.
> I understand that this will vary based
upon the age of the coach and
> its condition. I'm just doing research to understand what is required
> to be able to own and maintain a Bluebird.
>
> Also, would the maintenance and repair cost between a Bluebird and a
> Prevost be similar or would one expect the Prevost to be higher.
>
|