6" SS EXHAUST STACK

[Kurt Horvath]

Hi Wallace,

I looked into several options, the one I liked most was bi-metalic
valves. That's a strip of metal that expands and contracts when
heated and cooled. It's used in some muffler applications. When it's
cold it leaves a gap over a hole when heated it contracts and covers
the opening. Easy few parts automatic operation, simular to what you
described. The current prototype can be modified in this manner. The
electric valve can be removed and a flange can be put in it's place
with any type of device from a bung with a plug to the exhaust dump
valve to drain away the water. I wanted the trap to be capable of
draining away an possible water flow that might be encountered. Five
gallons a min. is most likly more than enough, unless that little son
of gun Murphy shows up. L.O.L. Of course the rain cap will do the job
but it's not a very attractive option, The 90 degree turn out pipe
also works well but I've been trying to delete as many turns in the
pipes as possible. The system that will be offered to the general
public is a direct replacement of OEM parts for your coach, The
photos that will be posted soon are of the exhaust going into my
coach.

Kurt Horvath
95 PT 42
10AC












--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wallace Craig
wrote:
>
> Kurt, I am probably the last person on earth that you should tale
advise from about anything mechanical. Having said that; can you not
install a flap at the end of the exhaust that is weighted to stay
closed when the engine is not operating? I know I have seen it on
truck applications.
> Keep Tennessee clean & green, maybe I will get back that way
sometime soon. Fuel is $2.44 at Racetrack in Azle.   Happy holidays.
>
>
> Wallace Craig
> 95 WLWB 42
> Azle, Texas
>
> --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote:
>
> From: Kurt Horvath
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 8:58 AM
>
> Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my exhaust build. I
> should have some photos today rain permitting.
>
> Some forum members brought up several points that I had not fully
> considered or researched.
>
> Some of the mods are a 90 degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree
> miter cut with a rain visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom
> inside curve of the turn out. This should keep most of the rain
out.
>
> Not being able to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I
> have built, two types the 90 I just described and a straight stack
> with a rain cap.
>
> Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished it up.
>
> If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot from the
> exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with mufflers
have
> water traps and some have drains as well, small holes drilled into
> the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a muffler, for a straight
> stack, so some sort of rain trap had to be created that would not
> interfere with the exhaust gas flow and trap and drain rain
> accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole can accumulate a lot of
> water in a daily south Florida afternoon rain, day after day sooner
> or later your going to fill the block with water. According to
> Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!! Detroit used the words
Catastrophic
> Failure several times.
>
> This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on the
Home
> Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are looking
at
> is the drain section with the garden hose on full flow. 5 gallons
per
> min. As you can see it gets most of the flow. The section of tube
on
> the ground has been cut down to 6" long with a 3.5" electric
exhaust
> dump valve installed on a flange to open and close the water trap.
At
> this point it is manually operated by a rocker switch or a by a
> remote key fob.
>
> I'm working on a thermal activated switch that will close the valve
> upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it detects
water
> in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it when
parked
> and close it before you crank up the motor
>
> Some of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and
the
> commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to
another
> modification.
>
> Most likely NOT a this stage, unless of course someone spots a
> glaring defect or error in my build.
>
> I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the coach,
> she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten
> several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she would
> sitting for a while.
>
> Comments, criticism, suggestions, jokes, remarks, welcomed.
>
> Currently this is a prototype for my coach, a direct replacement
for
> the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It will be built Stainless Steel
> and will be a direct bolt in application, to replace the OEM parts.
>
>
>
> Kurt Horvath
> 95 PT 42
> 10AC
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
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