6" SS EXHAUST STACK

[David Brady]

Kurt,



Capturing water and funneling it away in a vertical exhaust

stack bus application, where the engine is the lowest point

is not easy. How 'bout if we turn the problem on its head and

exit the exhaust downward and out the rear bumper, thereby

eliminating the stack completely? This is cheaper (less stainless

steel), better flowing (maybe fewer bends, but lots shorter),

and the water problem is solved.



David Brady, (of Brady Bucket Water Trap Fame!)

'02 LXi, NC



Kurt Horvath wrote:

Hi Wallace,



I looked into several options, the one I liked most was bi-metalic

valves. That's a strip of metal that expands and contracts when

heated and cooled. It's used in some muffler applications. When it's

cold it leaves a gap over a hole when heated it contracts and covers

the opening. Easy few parts automatic operation, simular to what you

described. The current prototype can be modified in this manner. The

electric valve can be removed and a flange can be put in it's place

with any type of device from a bung with a plug to the exhaust dump

valve to drain away the water. I wanted the trap to be capable of

draining away an possible water flow that might be encountered. Five

gallons a min. is most likly more than enough, unless that little son

of gun Murphy shows up. L.O.L. Of course the rain cap will do the job

but it's not a very attractive option, The 90 degree turn out pipe

also works well but I've been trying to delete as many turns in the

pipes as possible. The system that will be offered to the general

public is a direct replacement of OEM parts for your coach, The

photos that will be posted soon are of the exhaust going into my

coach.



Kurt Horvath

95 PT 42

10AC



--- In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com",
Wallace Craig

...> wrote:

>

> Kurt, I am probably the last person on earth that you should tale


advise from about anything mechanical. Having said that; can you not

install a flap at the end of the exhaust that is weighted to stay

closed when the engine is not operating? I know I have seen it on

truck applications.

> Keep Tennessee clean & green, maybe I will get back that way

sometime soon. Fuel is $2.44 at Racetrack in Azle. Happy holidays.

>

>

> Wallace Craig

> 95 WLWB 42

> Azle, Texas

>

> --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath "kguns@..." wrote:

>

> From: Kurt Horvath "kguns@..."

> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK

> To: "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com"

> Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 8:58 AM

>

> Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my exhaust build. I

> should have some photos today rain permitting.

>

> Some forum members brought up several points that I had not fully

> considered or researched.

>

> Some of the mods are a 90 degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree

> miter cut with a rain visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom

> inside curve of the turn out. This should keep most of the rain

out.

>

> Not being able to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I

> have built, two types the 90 I just described and a straight stack


> with a rain cap.

>

> Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished it up.

>

> If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot from the

> exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with mufflers

have

> water traps and some have drains as well, small holes drilled into


> the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a muffler, for a
straight

> stack, so some sort of rain trap had to be created that would not

> interfere with the exhaust gas flow and trap and drain rain

> accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole can accumulate a lot of


> water in a daily south Florida afternoon rain, day after day
sooner

> or later your going to fill the block with water. According to

> Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!! Detroit used the words

Catastrophic

> Failure several times.

>

> This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on the

Home

> Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are looking


at

> is the drain section with the garden hose on full flow. 5 gallons

per

> min. As you can see it gets most of the flow. The section of tube

on

> the ground has been cut down to 6" long with a 3.5" electric

exhaust

> dump valve installed on a flange to open and close the water trap.


At

> this point it is manually operated by a rocker switch or a by a

> remote key fob.

>

> I'm working on a thermal activated switch that will close the
valve

> upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it detects

water

> in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it when

parked

> and close it before you crank up the motor

>

> Some of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and

the

> commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to

another

> modification.

>

> Most likely NOT a this stage, unless of course someone spots a

> glaring defect or error in my build.

>

> I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the coach,

> she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten

> several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she
would

> sitting for a while.

>

> Comments, criticism, suggestions, jokes, remarks, welcomed.

>

> Currently this is a prototype for my coach, a direct replacement

for

> the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It will be built Stainless Steel


> and will be a direct bolt in application, to replace the OEM parts.

>

>

>

> Kurt Horvath

> 95 PT 42

> 10AC

>

>

> ------------------------------------

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

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