6" SS EXHAUST STACK

[Pete Masterson]

A low exhaust is certainly an option. However, care must be taken to
comply with vehicle code rules that state where exhaust may exit --
for example, I recall reading in the CA Vehicle Code that exhaust
must exit either below 24" or above 11 ft. (This is a recollection,
to the actual rule.)

A low exhaust might be done through the bumper (but then there is an
ugly gap around the pipe and problems ensuring that the heat doesn't
melt the plastic bumper) or below the bumper (but then there's the
problem of scraping the exhaust pipe when traversing a dip, etc.).

Might be better to deal with the rain drain.

Pete Masterson
'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42
aeonix1@...
On the road at Williams, AZ



On Dec 4, 2008, at 9:40 AM, David Brady wrote:

> Kurt,
>
> Capturing water and funneling it away in a vertical exhaust
> stack bus application, where the engine is the lowest point
> is not easy. How 'bout if we turn the problem on its head and
> exit the exhaust downward and out the rear bumper, thereby
> eliminating the stack completely? This is cheaper (less stainless
> steel), better flowing (maybe fewer bends, but lots shorter),
> and the water problem is solved.
>
> David Brady, (of Brady Bucket Water Trap Fame!)
> '02 LXi, NC
>
> Kurt Horvath wrote:
>>
>> Hi Wallace,
>>
>> I looked into several options, the one I liked most was bi-metalic
>> valves. That's a strip of metal that expands and contracts when
>> heated and cooled. It's used in some muffler applications. When it's
>> cold it leaves a gap over a hole when heated it contracts and covers
>> the opening. Easy few parts automatic operation, simular to what you
>> described. The current prototype can be modified in this manner. The
>> electric valve can be removed and a flange can be put in it's place
>> with any type of device from a bung with a plug to the exhaust dump
>> valve to drain away the water. I wanted the trap to be capable of
>> draining away an possible water flow that might be encountered. Five
>> gallons a min. is most likly more than enough, unless that little son
>> of gun Murphy shows up. L.O.L. Of course the rain cap will do the job
>> but it's not a very attractive option, The 90 degree turn out pipe
>> also works well but I've been trying to delete as many turns in the
>> pipes as possible. The system that will be offered to the general
>> public is a direct replacement of OEM parts for your coach, The
>> photos that will be posted soon are of the exhaust going into my
>> coach.
>>
>> Kurt Horvath
>> 95 PT 42
>> 10AC
>>
>> --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wallace Craig
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > Kurt, I am probably the last person on earth that you should tale
>> advise from about anything mechanical. Having said that; can you not
>> install a flap at the end of the exhaust that is weighted to stay
>> closed when the engine is not operating? I know I have seen it on
>> truck applications.
>> > Keep Tennessee clean & green, maybe I will get back that way
>> sometime soon. Fuel is $2.44 at Racetrack in Azle. Happy holidays.
>> >
>> >
>> > Wallace Craig
>> > 95 WLWB 42
>> > Azle, Texas
>> >
>> > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote:
>> >
>> > From: Kurt Horvath
>> > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK
>> > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
>> > Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 8:58 AM
>> >
>> > Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my exhaust build. I
>> > should have some photos today rain permitting.
>> >
>> > Some forum members brought up several points that I had not fully
>> > considered or researched.
>> >
>> > Some of the mods are a 90 degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree
>> > miter cut with a rain visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom
>> > inside curve of the turn out. This should keep most of the rain
>> out.
>> >
>> > Not being able to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I
>> > have built, two types the 90 I just described and a straight stack
>> > with a rain cap.
>> >
>> > Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished it up.
>> >
>> > If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot from the
>> > exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with mufflers
>> have
>> > water traps and some have drains as well, small holes drilled into
>> > the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a muffler, for a straight
>> > stack, so some sort of rain trap had to be created that would not
>> > interfere with the exhaust gas flow and trap and drain rain
>> > accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole can accumulate a lot of
>> > water in a daily south Florida afternoon rain, day after day sooner
>> > or later your going to fill the block with water. According to
>> > Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!! Detroit used the words
>> Catastrophic
>> > Failure several times.
>> >
>> > This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on the
>> Home
>> > Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are looking
>> at
>> > is the drain section with the garden hose on full flow. 5 gallons
>> per
>> > min. As you can see it gets most of the flow. The section of tube
>> on
>> > the ground has been cut down to 6" long with a 3.5" electric
>> exhaust
>> > dump valve installed on a flange to open and close the water trap.
>> At
>> > this point it is manually operated by a rocker switch or a by a
>> > remote key fob.
>> >
>> > I'm working on a thermal activated switch that will close the valve
>> > upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it detects
>> water
>> > in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it when
>> parked
>> > and close it before you crank up the motor
>> >
>> > Some of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and
>> the
>> > commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to
>> another
>> > modification.
>> >
>> > Most likely NOT a this stage, unless of course someone spots a
>> > glaring defect or error in my build.
>> >
>> > I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the coach,
>> > she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten
>> > several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she would
>> > sitting for a while.
>> >
>> > Comments, criticism, suggestions, jokes, remarks, welcomed.
>> >
>> > Currently this is a prototype for my coach, a direct replacement
>> for
>> > the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It will be built Stainless Steel
>> > and will be a direct bolt in application, to replace the OEM parts.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Kurt Horvath
>> > 95 PT 42
>> > 10AC
>> >
>> >
>> > ------------------------------------
>> >
>> > Yahoo! Groups Links
>> >
>>
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>> 5:41 PM
>
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