6" SS EXHAUST STACK

[Wallace Craig]

My stack turns 90* to the starboard; don't see how "stack hat" would work. Baggie and scotch tape is sure cheaper. Wallace Craig 95 WLWB 42 Azle, Texas --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote: From: Kurt Horvath Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 9:16 PM Wallace, Here is a safe, clean, easy fix, for long term parking, to protect against rain entering the exhaust. You do not need to climb on top of your coach, just use the included pole and storage bag when you don't need it. Make sure you copy and past all of the address below. http://www.iowa80.com/DirectionsWEB/webc...splay.php? itemid=98467 Kurt Horvath 95 PT 42 10AC --- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Pete Masterson wrote: > > I haven't researched it, but the problem of the 6" stack is the issue > -- almost all accessories max out at 5" diameter. Someone somewhere > might offer a 6" flap stack cover. > > In the interim, perhaps a (metal) bucket and bungee cord would > provide protection. Use a small, light (kids) bucket, and no bungee > cord and it will remove itself when you start up -- otherwise, be > sure not to forget to remove it! > > Pete Masterson > '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42 > aeonix1@... > On the road at Williams, AZ > > > > On Dec 4, 2008, at 9:51 AM, Wallace Craig wrote: > > > For us pore lawyer types; simple is the best solution. Do you know > > if the flap like I described is available that fits the coach that > > you and I have with 90 degree exhaust end?? I am going to be on > > South Padre Island for Jan & Feb and would like to keep water out. > > > > Wallace Craig > > 95 WLWB 42 > > Azle, Texas > > > > > > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath wrote: > > From: Kurt Horvath > > Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK > > To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > > Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 10:20 AM > > > > Hi Wallace, I looked into several options, the one I liked most was > > bi-metalic valves. That's a strip of metal that expands and > > contracts when heated and cooled. It's used in some muffler > > applications. When it's cold it leaves a gap over a hole when > > heated it contracts and covers the opening. Easy few parts > > automatic operation, simular to what you described. The current > > prototype can be modified in this manner. The electric valve can be > > removed and a flange can be put in it's place with any type of > > device from a bung with a plug to the exhaust dump valve to drain > > away the water. I wanted the trap to be capable of draining away an > > possible water flow that might be encountered. Five gallons a min. > > is most likly more than enough, unless that little son of gun > > Murphy shows up. L.O.L. Of course the rain cap will do the job but > > it's not a very attractive option, The 90 degree turn out pipe also > > works well but I've been trying to delete as many turns in the > > pipes as possible. The system that will be offered to the general > > public is a direct replacement of OEM parts for your coach, The > > photos that will be posted soon are of the exhaust going into my > > coach. Kurt Horvath 95 PT 42 10AC --- In > > WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, Wallace Craig > > wrote: > > Kurt, I am probably the last person on earth that you > > should tale advise from about anything mechanical. Having said > > that; can you not install a flap at the end of the exhaust that is > > weighted to stay closed when the engine is not operating? I know I > > have seen it on truck applications. > Keep Tennessee clean & green, > > maybe I will get back that way sometime soon. Fuel is $2.44 at > > Racetrack in Azle. Happy holidays. > > > Wallace Craig > 95 WLWB > > 42 > Azle, Texas > > --- On Thu, 12/4/08, Kurt Horvath > > wrote: > > From: Kurt Horvath > Subject: > > [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK > To: > > WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com > Date: Thursday, December 4, > > 2008, 8:58 AM > > Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my > > exhaust build. I > should have some photos today rain permitting. > > > > Some forum members brought up several points that I had not > > fully > considered or researched. > > Some of the mods are a 90 > > degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree > miter cut with a rain > > visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom > inside curve of the > > turn out. This should keep most of the rain out. > > Not being able > > to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I > have built, > > two types the 90 I just described and a straight stack > with a > > rain cap. > > Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished > > it up. > > If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot > > from the > exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with > > mufflers have > water traps and some have drains as well, small > > holes drilled into > the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a > > muffler, for a straight > stack, so some sort of rain trap had to > > be created that would not > interfere with the exhaust gas flow and > > trap and drain rain > accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole > > can accumulate a lot of > water in a daily south Florida afternoon > > rain, day after day sooner > or later your going to fill the block > > with water. According to > Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!! > > Detroit used the words Catastrophic > Failure several times. > > > > This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on the > > Home > Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are > > looking at > is the drain section with the garden hose on full > > flow. 5 gallons per > min. As you can see it gets most of the flow. > > The section of tube on > the ground has been cut down to 6" long > > with a 3.5" electric exhaust > dump valve installed on a flange to > > open and close the water trap. At > this point it is manually > > operated by a rocker switch or a by a > remote key fob. > > I'm > > working on a thermal activated switch that will close the valve > > > upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it detects > > water > in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it > > when parked > and close it before you crank up the motor > > Some > > of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and the > > > commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to > > another > modification. > > Most likely NOT a this stage, unless of > > course someone spots a > glaring defect or error in my build. > > > > I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the coach, > > > she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten > > > several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she would > > > sitting for a while. > > Comments, criticism, suggestions, jokes, > > remarks, welcomed. > > Currently this is a prototype for my coach, > > a direct replacement for > the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It > > will be built Stainless Steel > and will be a direct bolt in > > application, to replace the OEM parts. > > > > Kurt Horvath > 95 PT > > 42 > 10AC > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! > > Groups Links > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/join (Yahoo! ID > > > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WanderlodgeForum/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:WanderlodgeForum-digest@yahoogroups.com mailto:WanderlodgeForum-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: WanderlodgeForum-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/