6" SS EXHAUST STACK

[David Brady]

Kurt,



I think that your water trap is a good design. I'd probably shorten

the accumulator tank/pipe to around 3 inches, just enough to capture the

occasional burst of water, and I'd probably simply drill a quarter

inch hole in the bottom. That should do it. To make it even better

you could bend the slits on the exhaust pipe a bit to create a set of

scoops to better collect the water. Should work fine.



David Brady

'02 LXi, NC



Kurt Horvath wrote:

Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my exhaust build. I

should have some photos today rain permitting.



Some forum members brought up several points that I had not fully

considered or researched.



Some of the mods are a 90 degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree

miter cut with a rain visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom

inside curve of the turn out. This should keep most of the rain out.



Not being able to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I

have built, two types the 90 I just described and a straight stack

with a rain cap.



Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished it up.



If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot from the

exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with mufflers have

water traps and some have drains as well, small holes drilled into

the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a muffler, for a straight

stack, so some sort of rain trap had to be created that would not

interfere with the exhaust gas flow and trap and drain rain

accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole can accumulate a lot of

water in a daily south Florida afternoon rain, day after day sooner

or later your going to fill the block with water. According to

Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!! Detroit used the words Catastrophic

Failure several times.



This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on the Home

Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are looking at

is the drain section with the garden hose on full flow. 5 gallons per

min. As you can see it gets most of the flow. The section of tube on

the ground has been cut down to 6" long with a 3.5" electric exhaust

dump valve installed on a flange to open and close the water trap. At

this point it is manually operated by a rocker switch or a by a

remote key fob.



I'm working on a thermal activated switch that will close the valve

upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it detects water

in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it when parked

and close it before you crank up the motor



Some of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and the

commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to another

modification.



Most likely NOT a this stage, unless of course someone spots a

glaring defect or error in my build.



I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the coach,

she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten

several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she would

sitting for a while.



Comments, criticism, suggestions, jokes, remarks, welcomed.



Currently this is a prototype for my coach, a direct replacement for

the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It will be built Stainless Steel

and will be a direct bolt in application, to replace the OEM parts.



Kurt Horvath

95 PT 42

10AC

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