6" SS EXHAUST STACK

[Chris Fogleman]

Terry, Just to let you know it 80 deg in southern california Stay warm Terry

Chris E. Fogleman

Complete Coach Works

Alternative Fuel Sales Manager

Cell: (951) 836-6520

www.thelegacyreturns.com

"cfogleman@completecoach.com"

"cfogleman@bluebirdcoachworks.com"

---

From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Terry Neal
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2008 8:57 PM
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: 6" SS EXHAUST STACK

Very, very nice Kurt. You obviously have a lot of thought and planning into this "upgrade". Think I'll just imitate your design. If that's ok with you?

Terry
Trying to survive at 7 deg F. Wind chill is -8 deg F.

Ernie... are you warm?

Terry Neal

Bozeman, MT

82PT40 6V92TA

74FC34 6V53T





Kurt Horvath wrote: 








So far as constructed it can divert all but a dribble of 5 gallons a 

min. flow. If it rains that hard I think I'd worry more about the 

coach sinking into the ground. You can try to bend .083 thick SS. 

Good luck. The slits are flush and polished to keep the gas flow 

unrestricted. The catch can is a bit large, but does fit my 

application and has a large enough capacity to compensate for my lack 

of attention. Also if I use the Rain Cap or the 90 Degree turn out 

with it's anti-rain provisions the catch can is overkill. That's the 

fun part of building stuff your self. You get to do whatever suits 

you.---Again this is the prototype I built for my coach, the 

production version is a copy of the OEM parts in SS and includes a 

muffler and a 90 degree turn out tip. The catch can came about from 

our past discussions on the subject, and until I can get it mounted 

in the coach, it's purely experimental



Kurt Horvath

95 PT 42

10AC



In "WanderlodgeForum%40yahoogroups.com", David Brady "dmb993@..." wrote:

>

> Kurt,

> 

> I think that your water trap is a good design. I'd probably shorten

> the accumulator tank/pipe to around 3 inches, just enough to 

capture the

> occasional burst of water, and I'd probably simply drill a quarter

> inch hole in the bottom. That should do it. To make it even better

> you could bend the slits on the exhaust pipe a bit to create a set 

of

> scoops to better collect the water. Should work fine.

> 

> David Brady

> '02 LXi, NC

> 

> Kurt Horvath wrote:

> >

> >

> >

> > Here we are 6 weeks after our last posts on my exhaust build. I

> > should have some photos today rain permitting.

> >

> > Some forum members brought up several points that I had not fully

> > considered or researched.

> >

> > Some of the mods are a 90 degree turnout pipe up top, a 30 degree

> > miter cut with a rain visor and a drain tube on the necks bottom

> > inside curve of the turn out. This should keep most of the rain 

out.

> >

> > Not being able to decide on exactly which type of exit I wanted I

> > have built, two types the 90 I just described and a straight stack

> > with a rain cap.

> >

> > Yes David the same as on your JD, At least I polished it up.

> >

> > If you look at your PT's exhaust it's a straight shot from the

> > exhaust opening straight into your motor. Systems with mufflers 

have

> > water traps and some have drains as well, small holes drilled into

> > the bottom of the muffler. I opted out of a muffler, for a 

straight

> > stack, so some sort of rain trap had to be created that would not

> > interfere with the exhaust gas flow and trap and drain rain

> > accumulation of any proportions. A 5" hole can accumulate a lot of

> > water in a daily south Florida afternoon rain, day after day 

sooner

> > or later your going to fill the block with water. According to

> > Detroit this is a problem. DUH!!! Detroit used the words 

Catastrophic

> > Failure several times.

> >

> > This first post has a photo of the test drain trap. Look on the 

Home

> > Page for photo in Bumpersbird Album last pic. What you are 

looking at

> > is the drain section with the garden hose on full flow. 5 gallons 

per

> > min. As you can see it gets most of the flow. The section of tube 

on

> > the ground has been cut down to 6" long with a 3.5" electric 

exhaust

> > dump valve installed on a flange to open and close the water 

trap. At

> > this point it is manually operated by a rocker switch or a by a

> > remote key fob.

> >

> > I'm working on a thermal activated switch that will close the 

valve

> > upon heating or a sensor that will open the valve if it detects 

water

> > in the trap. The surest method of operation is to open it when 

parked

> > and close it before you crank up the motor

> >

> > Some of my modification will most likely raise some eyebrows, and 

the

> > commentary which when taken in the proper context may led to 

another

> > modification.

> >

> > Most likely NOT a this stage, unless of course someone spots a

> > glaring defect or error in my build.

> >

> > I'm ready to install the new pipes and go somewhere in the coach,

> > she's been in the barn since Aug. On the up side I have gotten

> > several large fix's and rebuilds done on her since I knew she 

would

> > sitting for a while.

> >

> > Comments, criticism, suggestions, jokes, remarks, welcomed.

> >

> > Currently this is a prototype for my coach, a direct replacement 

for

> > the 95-96 PT42's is in the works. It will be built Stainless Steel

> > and will be a direct bolt in application, to replace the OEM 

parts.

> >

> > Kurt Horvath

> > 95 PT 42

> > 10AC

> >

> > 

> > ----------------------------------------------------------

------

> >

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