Kohler Perkins

[timvasqz]

Chuck, I never understood the gauge ground to be a function of the reading? I understood it to be for the back light? I understand the 'to ignition' was +power to the gauge needel and the -end was a groundstrength to the needel from the sender.as the engine got warmer the grounding in the sender got better (less resistance or more contact)

Is there a standard for a 'resistance value in ohms'per 'reading of temp' or are sender and gauge a matched pair?

Is there a device that you can dial in a resistance value to check the performance of a gauge? I like your test method. our germination equipment require constant review.Review of gauges would be way better than waiting for at-temp peaks to check heater/dial accuracy

This is Greg, I use Tims computer and password. Our style differs. Tim learned to spell at USC and I Rutgers, or was it Rudkers?

GregoryO'Connor of Tim&Greg94ptCa

--- In WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Wheeler" wrote:
>
> Tim,
> This is a good test of the sending unit and if the wiring is intact, but did
> not show my problem which was corrosion in the dash connector on the common
> return for the gauges. My first indication was when I disconnected the
> temperature gauge and the oil started reading closer to normal. That is
> when I used resistors in place of the sending units to provide a known
> reading. I first place the resistors at the gauges to observe their
> accuracy then at the sending unit locations which tells me what, if
> anything, is being lost in the wiring. The only reason I bring the up is I
> replaced a good gauge because a multimeter does not provide the low
> resistance load of the gauge and wiring or ground problems can be missed.
>
> - Chuck Wheeler-
> 1982 FC 31SB Fort Worth TX
>
>
> _____
>
> From: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of timvasqz
> Sent: Friday, December 19, 2008 9:03 PM
> To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: Kohler Perkins
>
>
>
> If you disconnect the sender wire and hook up a multimeter ohms 300
> +to sender -to ground, the meter should show less ohms as the engine
> warms. If you know what the ohms value for 75degree and again for
> 150DegF you could compare it to your test and prove the sender. The
> temp gauge is nothing more than an ohm meter.
>
> I find it best to price the OEM sender and the gauge first. often
> you can find a more modern new pair(sender, gauge) for less than the
> cost to replace one or the other of the classic,OEM hard to find
> parts.
>
> the ohm value for the sender at a given degree has to match the gauge,
> they are a pair. one thing to look at is the scale . you dont need a
> gauge over 250 degrees and under 130 ( the wanderlodge 94,8v92
> watertemp gauge is the worst example of a useful scale)..
>
> Some time the wire between the sender and gauge is screwed. if it is
> close, jump a wire and look to see if a hot engine moves the gauge
> any?
>
> dont use tefflon on a new sender.
>
> an idiot light is prompted by a switch not a sender, they look alike
>
> GregoryO'Connor ofTim&Greg
> 94ptCa
>
> --- In WanderlodgeForum@
> yahoogroups.com, "Paul Downey"
> antique405@ wrote:
> >
> > The water temp and oil pressure guages on my 83 PT35 are not reading
> > correctly and i need to replace the sending units on both. I do not
> > know if these were supplied by perkins,kohler,telflex or BB. I have
> > tried calling BB tech service but get no return call. Has anyone
> > replaced the sending units and if so have any numbers or where to
> > purchase.
> >
> > Paul Downey
> > Versailles Ky
> > 83PT35
> > Our Rollin Home
> >
>