Elec. sys. remodel - suggestions wanted 1984FC35SB

[Pete Masterson]

The WL uses 2 legs of 120 volts. No appliances use 220 (240) VAC in a stock WL configuration. (It's one reason the washer/dryer is so slow at drying. The electric cook top (I have) is a little slower to warm up compared to a 220 V appliance, but we quickly adjusted to it.)

The older WLs have both 50 amp cords and dual 30 amp cords since 50 amp service was relatively unusual before the late 1980s at most RV parks. On my most recent trip, more than 2/3 of RV parks we encountered had full 50 amp service available. Some older parks had the 50 amp service limited to a portion of their facility.

When plugged into 50 amps you have 100 amps potential at 120 VAC, split in two legs of 50 amps @ 120. You can overload one leg and blow the breaker if you exceed 50 amps on that leg. BB has wired the distribution panel reasonably well to balance the load between legs. My coach (and I presume most of the newer 'birds) has two voltage gauges showing the voltage on each leg -- plus two amp gauges showing the draw on each leg. Switching devices on or off -- and observing the gauges will assist in power management when using less than a 50 amp service.

Even my "all electric" coach gets along reasonably well (check the gauges and watch what you turn on at the same time) on 30 amp service so long as I'm not using AC. When I needed to install replacement roof ACs, I choose "high efficiency" models that only draw 10 amps instead of the more usual 14-15 amps, yet still provide 13,500 btu cooling. This helps in low-power situations, but I'm still limited to 1 AC when hooked to 30 amp service due to the draw of therefrigerator, AquaHot,and battery charger.

15 amp service is minimal and is only practical to keep battery chargers and refrigerator running (at least on my all-electric unit). Adding any significant load beyond will blow the circuit breaker for the shore source.

The standard Wanderlodge 50 amp cord has 4 pins, 1 for ground, 1 for neutral, and 1 for _each_ leg. A 50/30 amp "dog bone" connector simply provides the 30 amp current to both legs. A "cheater box" will cause the GFI sensor to 'blow' if used on a typical 30/20 amp shore power pedestal, since the neutral will be "unbalanced" when using the cheater box. You can successfully use a cheater box with dual 30 amp service, if it is available. If wanted, it's often necessary to use the 30 amp service from two different power pedestals (this may cause a negative reaction from the RV park landlord) -- but I've done it with permission at a few RV parks, but I don't normally bother with it if I don't need AC (that is, if the weather is cool).

Pete Masterson

'95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42 (For Sale)

<http://www.aeonix.biz/BBforsale.html>

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Jan 21, 2009, at 8:34 AM, jkenn48105 wrote:

Also having a boat, at least on mine, the 50 amp service is 220. By using 2 30amp cords to a
cheater box I get 220v 30amp. I don't THINK the 50 amp service on a Bird is 220 so your 2
30amp cords would give you 60amps of 120v potential. What I'm not sure about on the bus
is if there are two legs, each 120v. Everything would be 120 on the AC side, just that the
load would be split and the amount of current (amps) available to run anything would be
dependent on whether you had 50, 30, or even, 15 amps coming into the bus. Someone help
me out on this, 'cause I"m just guessing here.