M380 Hurricane Heater

[cmillsap]

quote='davidmbrady' pid='391' dateline='1361479875']

(02-21-2013 12:54)cmillsap Wrote:  [/color]Thank, Peter,

The tees are plain old 1" brass and have no valve mechanism. I am not anxious to try to bleed the system through the bleeder screws on the registers. I agree with you and believe the best way to remove the blockage wheather it is air or debris is to backflush the system with water and replace the fluid. There are fittings available on the system to do this as shown in the pic below. You can see there are two hose bibs and a shutoff valve inbetween the two hose bibs. This is installed on the return line between the the tee and the HH unit.

I'm a little concerned to backflush the system first (through the left hose bib) as the reverse flowing fluid will flow back through the expansion tank in the unit before exiting the unit and the right hose bib. This because if it is debris blocking the flow, I may contaminate the expansion tank. So I think I will try pushing the fluid through the unit first (as it normally flows) and therefore push any debris out the left hose bib into the bucket.

I swear, owning Wanderlodge is full of challenges............

Hey Chuck,

I just read some of the Hurricane installation manual and they do suggest using a pressure pump to bleed the system. You disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses connecting to the expansion tank. Submerge the inlet hose into a 5 gal bucket of coolant, splice the pressure pump into the outlet hose, put a hose on the return bib and put the other end in a 5 gal bucket. Turn the pump on and force fluid thru the system.
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David, BB provided hose bibs on the return line with an isolation valve in between (see pic in post above), so it's an easy hook up although I don't have a pressure pump available, Maybe I can rent one from the local rental yard.

The manual doesn't say anything about check valves so they may not exist. The manual does say that the installer needs to measure head pressure at each loop and size the water pump appropriately.

If there is air in loop 2 maybe the pump can't over come the head.

When the loop is primed the static pressure is zero and the pump can easily do it's job. Chuck, it may be that it doesn't work because loop 2 lost it's prime and the pump can't over come the head? You may need to bleed loop 2.

David, I'ved traced the way the plumbing runs. Zone 2 runs first to a single fan register in the privy then back to the register under the bed and then back over to another single fan register in the bath then crosses over to the register by the dinett and back to the HH. (I think). Zone 2 supply line is hot to that first register in the privy and goes cold coming out of that register.
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There is no way to get to the privy register or the bath register without cutting a much larger hole in the floor under an ajoining closet with drawers underneath.

I was able to bleed the registers in the bedroom and dinett but there was very little fluid pressure at the bedroom pressure and none at the dinett register which I now believe is last one in the loop.

So it looks like the hot fluid is stopped at the privy register.

I decided it was time to quit for the day when as I was lying on the floor with a flashlight, I dropped the d***ed thing on my mouth and broke the cap on my two front teeth. Now you can call me "Snagglepuss".