Door won't open... what type of lubricant should we use to get out of here? lol

[Pete Masterson]

This may require disassembly of the door to access all the rods and joints used to tie the locking system together.

There are two locking systems -- one is the automotive style push button lock and the second is the home-style dead bolt with solenoid actuator. You'll need to determine which one is the culprit -- usually it's the automotive-style latch, since it has the most complex

First, get some graphite powder (do not use WD 40 inside a lock -- ever) and apply it through the key hole. Squirt some powder in, then put the key in and turn it both directions to the maximum extent. That may free things up. Test -- with someone inside and someone outside to cover contingencies.

If the graphite doesn't do the trick, remove the inside panel of the door. This will require removing 6 or 8 little wooden plugs to get at the screws. An electric screwdriver/drill is handy since there's a lot of screw-turning involved. Be careful, as the "wooden" (actually, a particle board like material) angled across the door can drop 'suddenly' as it is unscrewed. That will surely damage the pointy end if it hits something hard. It will damage your foot if it's in the way.

Then, inspect the (automotive) mechanism carefully. It has push rods and levers. Use white grease on the friction points. Tighten any loose mounts (but check that you're not binding the operation) and see if things work smoothly.

There is a spring that helps the door handle-push-button operate correctly. It often breaks. Inspect the action of the door opener when operating the lift-up handles. Replace springs if necessary. (I used a bungee cord as a temporary repair.) The key point is inside the door just below the push button where there is a lever that passes 'over center' in its travel. It needs to return to the correct position to actuate the next open/lock cycle properly.

The solenoid dead bolt lock rarely needs anything other than a bit of graphite through the keyhole. But,check the action of the solenoid for the dead bolt (door will have to be closed to get it to work). Use a solvent to remove any old, dried grease and re-lubricate with a little bit of fresh white grease. Do not overdo it! Keep grease off the electric contacts. Make sure wires are secure and not chafed.

Note: Solvents may be used inside the locking mechanism if they are binding, possibly from someone using WD-40 in the past. Use a solvent that does not leave a residue. Read labels in the hardware store to chose a suitable one.

In a pinch, you can use WD-40 to free up a jammed lock -- but use a non residual solvent as soon as possible after the WD-40, then let the lock dry, and lubricate with graphite. (WD-40 leaves a thin film of grease behind -- a plus in most circumstances -- but it's not good for locks as it attracts dust and grit, causing the lock to bind up quickly.)

Pete Masterson

(former) '95 Blue Bird Wanderlodge WBDA 42

El Sobrante CA

"aeonix1@mac.com"

On Nov 11, 2009, at 12:32 PM, Light "Ltenergy@aol.com" wrote:

Hello Friends,

Yesterday our door would not open. I couldn't get out... I finally just continued to play and pull until I finally opened the door. BUT this morning was another matter. The inside handle would move like normal... but would do nothing. I had to open the window on the curbside, above the couch and try to open the door from the outside. (yes, my neighbors were selling tickets). It took me about 45 minutes to figure out WHAT combination of things would get that door open.

One other idea I was having is the "security" locks you can push when you are in the bed at night or even the same lock button you can push above the door itself on the LIGHTS control pannel. Could the safety lock switches be an issue? They will LOCK the coach... but NOT unlock it...

I am thinking it is in need of lubrication.

ANY ideas?

and No... it wasn't frozen (57 degrees while it was stuck).

HUGS,
Light
91 40' PT WB
Fulltimers in Santa Cruz, CA., until we get on the road...