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FC Batteries
02-24-2010, 16:43
Post: #10
FC Batteries
Mike,
If you have a diagram of how you did that I would like to have a copy of it. I have a problem opening attachments here so you could email it or fold it into a paper airplane and sail it across the street. hehehe
Dave
Dave Ward
80FC31SB
Mesa, AZ

--- On Thu, 2/25/10, Michael <mike.putz@...> wrote:
From: Michael <mike.putz@...>
Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] Re: FC Batteries
To: WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, February 25, 2010, 3:24 AM





Most people will use a battery isolator but you will loose an entire volt across them at higher amp loads (like alterator charging) and unless you use a remote voltage sense regulator then you'll constantly undercharge your batteries.
A good test is this - After you've driven an entire day and have stopped for the night, turn on your generator and then activate your smart charger and watch the current. Typically you'll see it charge at over 50 amps, interesting because they should be fully charged after a long alternator charge like that.
So I use a contactor (relay) to isolate my house batteries from the starting batteries. Mine is setup to close (charge) with engine running andisolate with engine off. I also installed a manual switch so I can "jump" my start batteries if needed.
Michael
63FC35 Bluebird Conversion
78FC35 Wanderlodge
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Messages In This Thread
FC Batteries - georgeseagle - 02-18-2010, 18:35
FC Batteries - georgeseagle - 02-18-2010, 18:36
FC Batteries - Dorn Hetzel - 02-19-2010, 01:23
FC Batteries - GARY MINKER - 02-19-2010, 11:39
FC Batteries - Michael - 02-23-2010, 02:12
FC Batteries - Donald Watson - 02-23-2010, 04:29
FC Batteries - George Burke - 02-23-2010, 17:58
FC Batteries - George Burke - 02-24-2010, 13:03
FC Batteries - Michael - 02-24-2010, 15:24
FC Batteries - David Ward - 02-24-2010 16:43
FC Batteries - nytexcel - 02-25-2010, 06:43



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