shore power

[George F. VerDuin]

Great start, here is just a little more info:



You likely have two batteries -- an engine and a house battery.  I
presume we are discussing the house.

Your 12VDC house system should have one master switch, most loads
are connected after the master relay.

You probably also have one disconnect switch, a few loads [like
refer] connect after disconnect and before master.

The master on my BMC37 is next to the entry door, the disconnect is
in the battery compartment.

The charger is normally wired directly to the battery so it works
even with the disconnect switch open.

Instruments like the voltmeter on the wall might be wired
anywhere...



I am a bit worried by your 20V reading, it doesn't match any normal
reading for either 12 or 120 or 240 system.

Please get yourself an inexpensive hand held volt meter for
diagnostics, leave the wall meter for monitoring.



Start with the disconnect [and master] switched OFF.

It is good practice to verify connections are tight, clean, dry, no
trace of white [or green] corrosion.

Healthy no-load DC voltages are APPROXIMATELY like:

14.2VDC peak charge current to a healthy battery

13.8VDC float [or trickle] charge to maintain a full charge on the
battery

12.5VDC full charge battery after charger turned off for days

11.5VDC mostly discharged in a normal cycle of use

10.5 or less // a really dead battery without a charger connected



A dead battery will not take many repetitions of re-charge, try to
keep the battery above 11.5VDC to extend it's life of service.

If a dead battery takes re-charge and maintains 12.5VDC for a day
after charging at no-load it may be a good battery.

If a dead battery takes some recharge current, and maintains some
voltage after a day of no-charging, then some cells are good.

After a day without charging, turn on the disconnect and master and
a few lights -- do NOT turn on big loads like an inverter.

If the battery voltage under light load [without the charger
running] does not dip below 12.25VDC there is some hope for the
battery...



Have a great hunt.

Skip



On 10/10/2011 06:58 AM, Markus Meyer wrote:

 

So lets break this down logically.  If you have 120 power
off shore and that is working fine, you are good there. 
Generator is just an alternate source for 120/shore power,
so disconnecting that shouldn't be of any concern right
now.  Your 12 volt system is separate, and if you say the
batteries go dead you have an issue there somewhere.  The
only connection between 120 and 12 volt should be battery
chargers of some sort that take 120 power to keep your
batteries charged.  I'd start there to see what you have
going on, is the charger turned on, is it working, etc.



Markus 

---

To: "WanderlodgeForum@yahoogroups.com"

From: "df0226@comcast.net"

Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 04:28:03 +0000

Subject: [WanderlodgeForum] shore power



 

Im a neebie with a fc33 problem.

I turned the switch to shore power, plugged in the
power cord, turned on the breakers. All the 110
accessories work but it appears there is no
converted power (12 volt) to any of the 12 volt
accessories, interior lights etc.

The voltmeter on the wall only reads 20? volts and
the batteries go dead.

The generator was removed before I got the coach
so I dont know what was disconnected in the
removal, but where should I go looking for the
problem?

I am a certified mechanic from the 80's but I seem
to be lost on where to begin looking and the
bluebird manual is sorely lacking on any
information for repairs.

Does anybody sell a repair manual or information
for repairs on the Wanderlodges?



dana fransen w/

BOB (the big ol bus)fc33

valley springs ca

40 miles east of stocton